Ten Tried and True Cone 6 Glaze Recipes Available for Download!

Firing to mid-range, which includes cones 4-7, but most commonly cone 6, is increasingly popular these days. Some folks are reducing their firing temperature because they are thinking more about energy consumption from an environmental standpoint or a purely economical one. Others are just discovering the great potential of this firing range. So, we decided to put together a collection of cone 6 glaze recipes, packaged in a convenient recipe card format that can be printed, laminated (if you so choose) and taken into the studio. – Jennifer Harnetty, editor.



Textured Blue Glaze Recipe Cone 6, reduction
Talc 17.0%
Whiting 10.0%
Frit 3134 (Ferro) 20.0%
Nepheline Syenite 30.0%
Edgar Plastic Kaolin (EPK) 13.0%
Silica (Flint) 10.0%
Total: 100.0%
Zircopax 10.0%
Cobalt Carbonate 0.5%
Copper Carbonate 1.0%
Rutile 3.0%
This is Marcia Selsor’s Waxy White base with a number of colorants added. This variation was derived from a 50/50 color blend with rutile incorporated in the base for texture. Goes glossy on interiors and breaks beautifully over textures.

Fake Ash Glaze Recipe Cone 6, reduction
Bone Ash 5%
Dolomite 25%
Lithium Carbonate 2%
Strontium Carbonate 9%
Frit 3134 (Ferro) 10%
Kentucky Ball Clay (OM 4) 24%
Cedar Heights Redart 23%
Silica (Flint) 2%
Total 100%
This is a beautifully variegated fake ash cone 6 glaze. It is a brighter yellow on porcelain with hints of green where thicker, and terra cotta-colored where thin. It is not stable because it is low in silica, but to alter it would change the ash effect. While it does not meet strict requirements of stability, I use it anyway because I substituted strontium for barium.

  • Rodney F.

    why not put the answers to the questions below the question so we don’t ask the question over again

  • Denise M.

    As I am not in America, I have no idea what you mean by;
    Edgar Plastic Kaolin
    Kentucky Ball Clay
    Cedar Heights Redart
    Gillespie Borate.

    While I can take a guess and try my local Kaolins, Ball Clays etc, some kind of chemical breakdown would be really useful to give us international subscribers some idea. If anyone could give me an idea of the last two on my list here which really have me mystified, I’d really appreciate it.

  • Carlos D.

    Like many of you out there, I’m a new potter who is trying to mix some glazes. I have purchased some chemicals from a supplier but every time that I see a color that I like, I don’t have one of the chemicals. Is there any recipes that contain only a few basic ingredents? My supplier is not near to me and shipping is a concern. I’m looking for a basic clear, white, shino, celedon, blue. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks

  • Sandra N.

    I am fairly new to mixing glazes and it has taken me lots of reading and trial and error, but I’ve only made a few glazes by recipes I’ve gotten from books.

    One question…do glazes “go bad”…and under what circumstances?

    Also, I’m looking for the following…

    1. a very burnt orange cone 6 oxidation glaze…either gloss or semi matt,

    2. a white satin matt recipe (cone 6 ox), and

    3. a floating blue that won’t turn brown on me. ( I have made a couple of batches that start out really nice, but after a couple of months, everything starts turning brown when I fire…any ideas on what I’m doing…or not doing?)

    Please allow me one more topic…
    can someone tell me if the stains (such as Mason) can be added to any clear base glaze recipe…or other base glaze? Are they opaque colorants, or is there some falling off details? Are they calculated in with the recipe, or just added after the recipe is made?

    Any assistance is very much appreciated!


  • Anne G.

    I am looking for a black glaze recipe in cone 6 oxidation. Shiny, matte… I’m looking for recipes that are stable and, ideally, food safe.

  • I don’t know ceramics but I do know math so, as a previous post said, “To mix a 5 gallon bucket generally about 10,000 grams.”

    Here is the best formula helper, always think, “WHAT IS % OF ????”

    “WHAT” is “equals”
    “%” can be turned into “.00”
    “OF” means “multiple”
    “???” is total of what you want

    For example, the one recipe needs Silica (Flint) 2% and I want to have 10000 grams.

    So, “WHAT = .02 “of” (multipled) 10000″
    .02 x 10000 = 200
    I will need 200 grams of Silica for my recipe.

    Yeah, I have that figured, now I need to know, concerning the “ADDS”, do you add it to the total 100%? I am assuming so.

    FYI, I didn’t learn this from a class. Most glazes were provided and treated like some deep dark secret potion. I dug deep in “google” for most of my resources.

  • I’m currently using purchased glazes, but want to use some recipes that I have found and really like the color of them. Most of my glazes are mixed in 5 gallon buckets, so I can dip them easily. What is the easiest way to figure how many pounds of a glaze I would need to fill a 5 gallon bucket, say 4 gallons full?


  • naive question how do you get REDUCTION at cone 6 in am electric kiln? impossible?

  • Christine B.

    Bravo! Well said Alice. I am not a professional potter but rather a public school art teacher. I checked out library books, subscribed to forums like this and read the posts, I had high school chemistry so could understand most of the terminology.

    I would suggest newbies sign up for a basic class/workshop and get many of their questions answered there. If they are rural like we are there is major information on the web.
    AND if they never took high school chemistry bone up on some of the basic terminology.

    What it boils down to is the same thing students have been told for years “study and do your homework”

  • alice b.

    hello, all you newcomers. i have been a potter for 37 years. that means i am old. so most of you youngun’s will turn away right now thinking i would not have anything relevant to say to you in 2010.

    i am not trying to insult you, but you really are on the wrong track.
    i learned nearly all of the information i have from an old fashioned way of passing on information. i read BOOKS that i got at my local library. there are many of them written just for you newbies that tell you all the answers to all of the questions posed here and on all the other websites where people ask questions of experienced potters. you surely have the right to ask questions here but don’t expect busy potters to hold your hand through all your possible puzzlement. it is true that some of you realize that your questions are similar to those of a second grader asking a graduate of MIT something about calculus. first learn to add 2+2.

    find out the basic information yourself and then when you do ask a specific question you will have enough basic knowledge to understand the answer. do your homework on your own time. start with the glossary in John B. Kenny’s books (who first wrote for you in 1949). check out the last one he published. yes, i know it is 2010, but the basics are still BASIC. try Glenn Nelson also. if you are into throwing, look for an old one called Pottery Workshop by Charles Counts. it will teach you to throw in a sensible way building on what you already know from the others. when you get really good, the best is still Robin Hopper who will teach you what you need to know to make those pots look and feel good. when you are done, you might have learned why it is not OK to make a ten pound, six inch cylinder. then you will sound more knowledgable and less newbie.

    the internet is great and someday i will learn how my computer works, but i don’t expect just anyone on a computer to tell me what a cpu is and then hold my hand through the process of my learning how to post pictures.

  • Mary D.

    i live in S.C. where would the nearest supplier be?

  • If you are really interested in learning about glazes, I highly recommend the informative articles on http://www.Digitalfire.com. There is something for both newbies and more experienced potters.

  • I have a question. When firing a plate with a glaze at cone 6, should I use “pins” or place the plate directly on the kiln shelve? My concern is to prevent warping of the plate. Thank you Jim.

  • I find all the comments very helpful, I am also new to mixing glazes for myself and the comments made some things a lot clearer in my mind. Why does nobody seem to be talking about how you know how much water to add to each individual recipe? I would think that this is also of major importance. From what I know there is some kind of meter that you let float in the glaze that indicates if the water amount added is correct. Is it called a hygrometer? I am looking forward to any helpful answers. I would also like to see if anyone has some recipes which are 1. food safe and 2. also would like to find out where I can find glaze recipes that have non toxic ingredients.

  • Daryl S.

    Has anyone tried these glazes in Oxidation? If so please let me know how they come out.

  • Richard U.

    I have been mixing glazes for a long time and have never heard of “light rutile.” Is there any difference between that and regular rutile?


  • I am so new that I do not know what you are talking about?

    So if I wanted to mix say a blue color…what would I do?

    What exactly is oxidation? Does that mean adding oxygen or bubble to the paint? (so new)

    Where have you found a site that speaks (plain) english and is easily understood that gives recipes and it is not like reading greek?


  • Trygve B.

    The Ceramic Arts Daily text “Ceramic Workshop Handbook: Pottery Tools and Ceramic Studio Resources” also has a very healthy list of suppliers in the last pages of the text, depending on what US state you are in. (Check it out on the “Free Gifts” page.)

  • Trygve B.

    There are a vast variety of suppliers, but geography is vital (EPK/kaolin, for example, can come from Florida to Britain). Who you want to order from will depend first on the shipping location (since shipping costs money!) and what kind of variety they can provide. I live in Minnesota, and a few close suppliers on my list are Continental Clay Company and Minnesota Clay Company, which both provide various weights of raw materials. It is also good to keep in mind that a little can go a long way, so it is best not to get too caught up in ordering a large quantity of material, unless you are certain you will be needing however much you order.

  • Where do you buy all of these ingredients? Can anyone recommend a site that is a supplier to the average person and not a biz..

  • Denise J.

    There’s no reason why these 2 recipes wouldn’t work in Oxidation, I’d try them if you like them.

  • Lana K.

    Please let us know in advance if the glazes are REDUCTION cone 6.

  • I’m a “newbie” to glazes too and have yet to mix my own. When recipes are written as the textured blue above and the second part calls for 4 additional ingredients which add up to an additional 14.5% do we add these to the 100% other ingredients for a total batch of 114.5% or do we add 95.5% of the first part to 14.5% of the second part? Traditional convention is confusing sometimes….especially for me 😉

  • When the percentages include decimal figures which all add up to 100% including oxides or any other additions, is there a way to work it back to the original recipe? Maths not being my stronest point, I usually just round up or down and hope for the best!

  • Steven S.

    When some people are new this they get confused on the additonal parts (colorants, Bentonite, etc.) You add them to the 100, hence the term addition, rather than what some people put out on the internet that you break the whole thing down into %’s. Remember potters by nature have worked with these formulas for a long time and didn’t always have a calculator right next to them. So if it calls for Ball Clay 10, it means 10% ball clay. So if you have a 1000g batch as Art says then you will have 100grams of Ball clay to add. If you are wondering how much it takes to fill a 5gallon bucket, it generally takes about 10,000 grams depending on the chemicals present in the mix.

  • Art E.

    This is simple, say you want 1000 grams of glaze and it calls for 13%, multiply 1000 by .13. It is as follows 1000 X .13 = 130 grams. Or say you want 10 pounds same way 10 X .13 = 1.3 pounds. Always multiply by the percent expressed as a decimal. 1% = .01 1/2% = .005 10% = .10 and so on, it is easy when it is broken down to small numbers.

  • Shelley D.

    I started pottery about 6 years ago (part time at Dundas Valley School of Arts in Ontario, Canada)- I love it like crazy – I’m so confused about the glaze recipes, I wish I could make my own but the recipes confuse me. It’s all in percentages?

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