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I build pots to function as a canvas for my glazing. I pinch and coil my pots because this process is organic, slow, and methodical. Pinching leaves evidence of touch in the clay, providing a subtle texture to interact with the glazes. The glaze is brushed onto the pots so the surfaces take on a painterly quality. This is by no means a quick process, but rather a labor of love.
I approach my glazing process with a focused interest in depth of surface; I think of the surface in layers, similar to encaustic. I see the surfaces as a Color Field painting converged with Ben-Day dots commonly found in Pop Art. The vessels are layered with commercially available underglazes, glazes, and lusters. I’m interested in the combinations of these materials and their resulting emotive qualities. In some areas, there are four or five layers of glaze, concealing underlying colors in places and revealing them in others. I strive to make beautiful, colorful, and happy artwork to function well and bring joy to everyday objects.
Dots Galore Pattern
For the Dots Galore pattern, start with a block of orange or blue underglaze, typically at the bottom of the piece. Apply a base glaze to the rest of the piece. Then meticulously add a red-dot glaze pattern in rows, starting from the top of the piece (1). This layer is the most important because it establishes the groundwork for all the other dots that will be layered on top. This first layer of glazed dots is also the most time consuming. After all the red base dots have been applied, go over each red dot with a white glaze, leaving a ring of the red around the outside (2). This red ring pops once the piece is fired. The white glaze allows the top dot color to be visible when the pot is finished. If you put the final color directly on the red without the white barrier, the red eats up the pigment and the colors are very muted.
After the white layer has been applied, the real fun begins because the design comes to life when the final colored dots are applied. Add the dots in rows or random patterns with purples, greens, and yellows, according to your preference (3).
While glazing, you can use a heat gun to quickly dry areas so that the glaze doesn’t accidentally smudge. If you accidentally smudge an area, dry it with the heat gun and use an X-Acto knife to scrape any smudges off the pot.
Funky Pattern Glazing
When glazing the Funky pattern, start by blocking off a chunk of the pot with underglaze, similar to the Dots Galore pattern. Then add the base glaze to the rest of the exterior. At this point, you can be much freer in this style and the remaining glaze work. Before adding glaze to this base, sketch out the design with a regular no. 2 pencil, which will burn out in the kiln. For the Funky pattern, I draw on elements reminiscent of flowers, butterflies, polka dots, and graffiti. By sketching first with the pencil, you can be sure that the elements all make compositional sense. The main difference between this Funky pattern and the Dots Galore pattern is that the design dictates where the second and third layers go; they do not overlap the whole design.
Use a thicker brush to lay down the pattern of your glaze design (5). Then use a variety of brushes in varying thicknesses to complete the remaining designs on top (6). Add polka-dot and line patterns to create interesting designs. The more glaze added, the more the pattern moves in the kiln (7). Don’t add so much that it runs and gets blurry, but rather just enough that the glaze flows a bit in the kiln and the colors blend together. This pattern is much looser and more intuitive than the regularity of the dots.
Melissa Mytty is currently working as a studio artist in Collegeville, Pennsylvania, where she and her husband are raising their two young daughters. She has an MFA from Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. Follow her on Instagram @melissamytty and at melissamyttyshop.com or melissamytty.com.
Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
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