Transforming your ceramics with custom underglaze transfers is easier than you think. All you need to make an underglaze stamp pad is a small container, quilting foam, and underglaze!
In today's post, an excerpt from the September 2024 issue of Ceramics Monthly, Maya McNicoll shows you her simple way to DIY an underglaze stamp pad and custom stamps. She also demonstrates how to transfer your repeatable stamped designs using newsprint. –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
To create the stamp pad, begin by measuring and cutting the quilting foam to fit snugly inside the small lidded box (1). Cut enough foam to fill two layers on the bottom of the box (2). Then, pour your underglaze into the box and place the foam on top
(3, 4). Gently tap the foam down into the underglaze until the foam is fully saturated (5, 6). Your underglaze stamp pad is now ready for use.
When creating your stamp, cut Speedy-Carve stamp block to the desired size. Sketch your design onto the stamp surface. Finally, use the V-shaped lino-cutting gouge to carve away the unwanted material, refining your design (7).
Making the Underglaze Transfer
To begin, gently press the stamp, face down, into the foam (8). You will feel the foam give way slightly. Resist the temptation to push the stamp all the way to the bottom, just push it slightly into the surface of the foam. If you push too deep, all
that will happen is you’ll get messy fingers. Tap the stamp gently onto the foam surface about three times. Check to see that you have good coverage. Keep gently pressing into the foam until you do. Then, lay out your newsprint. Now, place your
stamp face down onto your newsprint and firmly press on the back of the stamp to make your print. Repeat these steps until all the surface is covered (9). At this point, let your transfer dry completely. These can be stored and will last for a long
time.
Activating the Transfer & Applying
Start by cutting your transfer to size, ensuring it fits your piece. Make sure to leave some space around the transfer to pick it up without touching the design. To activate the transfer (make it wet again), lightly paint over the transfer with slip (10).
Note: One coat will do. Next, coat the surface of your greenware piece liberally with slip. Two to three coats is often needed. Leave it to set up.
Once the slip has set up, you should no longer see any shiny areas. It should look matte, both on the transfer and on the piece. Carefully position the transfer onto your pottery piece (11). Gently tap the transfer to adhere it to the surface. Gently
run your rubber kidney over the back of the transfer, moving from the center out. Test an area by gently lifting the corner of the transfer and looking to see if the image has transferred. If not, place the corner back and keep rubbing gently with
the kidney until it has. When ready, peel away the newsprint paper to reveal your printed image (12, 13). Be very careful how you move your pots about the studio now as any dunt, scrape, or stray fingertip will leave a mark. I recommend using bats.
When the pots have set up to leather hard again, you can trim as usual.
the author Maya McNicoll is a Scottish artist and studio potter, currently working from Aotearoa, New Zealand. She runs the Small Batch Pottery Co and has an active Instagram where you can follow the behind the scenes and daily life of working in a small-batch pottery. Follow along @Smallbatchpotteryco.
Search the Daily
Published Sep 2, 2024
PS. To see Maya's tips and tricks for getting the most out of your underglaze stamp, check out the full article in the September 2024 issue of Ceramics Monthly! Not a subscriber? Subscribe today!
Creating the Underglaze Stamp Pad & Stamp
To create the stamp pad, begin by measuring and cutting the quilting foam to fit snugly inside the small lidded box (1). Cut enough foam to fill two layers on the bottom of the box (2). Then, pour your underglaze into the box and place the foam on top (3, 4). Gently tap the foam down into the underglaze until the foam is fully saturated (5, 6). Your underglaze stamp pad is now ready for use.
When creating your stamp, cut Speedy-Carve stamp block to the desired size. Sketch your design onto the stamp surface. Finally, use the V-shaped lino-cutting gouge to carve away the unwanted material, refining your design (7).
Making the Underglaze Transfer
To begin, gently press the stamp, face down, into the foam (8). You will feel the foam give way slightly. Resist the temptation to push the stamp all the way to the bottom, just push it slightly into the surface of the foam. If you push too deep, all that will happen is you’ll get messy fingers. Tap the stamp gently onto the foam surface about three times. Check to see that you have good coverage. Keep gently pressing into the foam until you do. Then, lay out your newsprint. Now, place your stamp face down onto your newsprint and firmly press on the back of the stamp to make your print. Repeat these steps until all the surface is covered (9). At this point, let your transfer dry completely. These can be stored and will last for a long time.
Activating the Transfer & Applying
Start by cutting your transfer to size, ensuring it fits your piece. Make sure to leave some space around the transfer to pick it up without touching the design. To activate the transfer (make it wet again), lightly paint over the transfer with slip (10). Note: One coat will do. Next, coat the surface of your greenware piece liberally with slip. Two to three coats is often needed. Leave it to set up.
Once the slip has set up, you should no longer see any shiny areas. It should look matte, both on the transfer and on the piece. Carefully position the transfer onto your pottery piece (11). Gently tap the transfer to adhere it to the surface. Gently run your rubber kidney over the back of the transfer, moving from the center out. Test an area by gently lifting the corner of the transfer and looking to see if the image has transferred. If not, place the corner back and keep rubbing gently with the kidney until it has. When ready, peel away the newsprint paper to reveal your printed image (12, 13). Be very careful how you move your pots about the studio now as any dunt, scrape, or stray fingertip will leave a mark. I recommend using bats. When the pots have set up to leather hard again, you can trim as usual.
the author Maya McNicoll is a Scottish artist and studio potter, currently working from Aotearoa, New Zealand. She runs the Small Batch Pottery Co and has an active Instagram where you can follow the behind the scenes and daily life of working in a small-batch pottery. Follow along @Smallbatchpotteryco.
Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
Related Content
Ceramic Artists
Functional Pottery
Ceramic Sculpture
Glaze Chemistry
High Fire Glaze Recipes
Mid-Range Glaze Recipes
Low Fire Glaze Recipes
Ceramic Colorants
Ceramic Glazes and Underglazes
Ceramic Raw Materials
Pottery Clay
Ceramic Decorating Tools
Ceramic Kilns
Making Clay Tools
Wheel Throwing Tools
Electric Kiln Firing
Gas Kiln Firing
Raku Firing
Salt Firing and Soda Firing
Wood Kiln Firing
Ceramic Decorating Techniques
Ceramic Glazing Techniques
Handbuilding Techniques
Making Ceramic Molds
Making Ceramic Tile
Wheel Throwing Techniques