Transforming your ceramics with custom underglaze transfers is easier than you think. Learn how to DIY this simple tool, which yields big results.
Creating the Underglaze Stamp Pad & Stamp
To create the stamp pad, begin by measuring and cutting the quilting foam to fit snugly inside the small lidded box (1). Cut enough foam to fill two layers on the bottom of the box (2). Then, pour your underglaze into the box and place the foam on top (3, 4). Gently tap the foam down into the underglaze until the foam is fully saturated (5, 6). Your underglaze stamp pad is now ready for use.
When creating your stamp, cut Speedy-Carve stamp block to the desired size. Sketch your design onto the stamp surface. Finally, use the V-shaped lino-cutting gouge to carve away the unwanted material, refining your design (7).
Making the Underglaze Transfer
To begin, gently press the stamp, face down, into the foam (8). You will feel the foam give way slightly. Resist the temptation to push the stamp all the way to the bottom, just push it slightly into the surface of the foam. If you push too deep, all that will happen is you’ll get messy fingers. Tap the stamp gently onto the foam surface about three times. Check to see that you have good coverage. Keep gently pressing into the foam until you do. Then, lay out your newsprint. Now, place your stamp face down onto your newsprint and firmly press on the back of the stamp to make your print. Repeat these steps until all the surface is covered (9). At this point, let your transfer dry completely. These can be stored and will last for a long time.
Activating the Transfer & Applying
Start by cutting your transfer to size, ensuring it fits your piece. Make sure to leave some space around the transfer to pick it up without touching the design. To activate the transfer (make it wet again), lightly paint over the transfer with slip (10). Note: One coat will do. Next, coat the surface of your greenware piece liberally with slip. Two to three coats is often needed. Leave it to set up.
Once the slip has set up, you should no longer see any shiny areas. It should look matte, both on the transfer and on the piece. Carefully position the transfer onto your pottery piece (11). Gently tap the transfer to adhere it to the surface. Gently run your rubber kidney over the back of the transfer, moving from the center out. Test an area by gently lifting the corner of the transfer and looking to see if the image has transferred. If not, place the corner back and keep rubbing gently with the kidney until it has. When ready, peel away the newsprint paper to reveal your printed image (12, 13). Be very careful how you move your pots about the studio now as any dunt, scrape, or stray fingertip will leave a mark. I recommend using bats. When the pots have set up to leather hard again, you can trim as usual.
Tips & Tricks
I love the messy, broken, glitchy look you get with slip transfers, but if you’re looking for a crisper image, consider activating the transfer by spraying water onto it instead of using slip. I have found that this can result in almost pristine prints.
If you hold the transfer loosely while attaching to the piece, you can create lots of lovely wrinkles and creases. If you hold the transfer tightly, you get a more consistent surface.
Experiment with adding a drop of Darvan 7 to your underglaze. This additive helps disperse the underglaze to the edges of the stamp, resulting in a distinct outline effect.
For larger transfers, opt for battleship gray linoleum instead of a softer stamping material. To stamp, pour underglaze onto a sheet of plexiglass and use a sponge roller to transfer the underglaze onto your lino.
the author Maya McNicoll is a Scottish artist and studio potter, currently working from Aotearoa, New Zealand. She runs the Small Batch Pottery Co and has an active Instagram where you can follow the behind the scenes and daily life of working in a small-batch pottery. Follow along @Smallbatchpotteryco.
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Transforming your ceramics with custom underglaze transfers is easier than you think. Learn how to DIY this simple tool, which yields big results.
To create the stamp pad, begin by measuring and cutting the quilting foam to fit snugly inside the small lidded box (1). Cut enough foam to fill two layers on the bottom of the box (2). Then, pour your underglaze into the box and place the foam on top (3, 4). Gently tap the foam down into the underglaze until the foam is fully saturated (5, 6). Your underglaze stamp pad is now ready for use.
When creating your stamp, cut Speedy-Carve stamp block to the desired size. Sketch your design onto the stamp surface. Finally, use the V-shaped lino-cutting gouge to carve away the unwanted material, refining your design (7).
Making the Underglaze Transfer
To begin, gently press the stamp, face down, into the foam (8). You will feel the foam give way slightly. Resist the temptation to push the stamp all the way to the bottom, just push it slightly into the surface of the foam. If you push too deep, all that will happen is you’ll get messy fingers. Tap the stamp gently onto the foam surface about three times. Check to see that you have good coverage. Keep gently pressing into the foam until you do. Then, lay out your newsprint. Now, place your stamp face down onto your newsprint and firmly press on the back of the stamp to make your print. Repeat these steps until all the surface is covered (9). At this point, let your transfer dry completely. These can be stored and will last for a long time.
Activating the Transfer & Applying
Start by cutting your transfer to size, ensuring it fits your piece. Make sure to leave some space around the transfer to pick it up without touching the design. To activate the transfer (make it wet again), lightly paint over the transfer with slip (10). Note: One coat will do. Next, coat the surface of your greenware piece liberally with slip. Two to three coats is often needed. Leave it to set up.
Once the slip has set up, you should no longer see any shiny areas. It should look matte, both on the transfer and on the piece. Carefully position the transfer onto your pottery piece (11). Gently tap the transfer to adhere it to the surface. Gently run your rubber kidney over the back of the transfer, moving from the center out. Test an area by gently lifting the corner of the transfer and looking to see if the image has transferred. If not, place the corner back and keep rubbing gently with the kidney until it has. When ready, peel away the newsprint paper to reveal your printed image (12, 13). Be very careful how you move your pots about the studio now as any dunt, scrape, or stray fingertip will leave a mark. I recommend using bats. When the pots have set up to leather hard again, you can trim as usual.
the author Maya McNicoll is a Scottish artist and studio potter, currently working from Aotearoa, New Zealand. She runs the Small Batch Pottery Co and has an active Instagram where you can follow the behind the scenes and daily life of working in a small-batch pottery. Follow along @Smallbatchpotteryco.
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