Working with a wall-mounted manual extruder can open up a world of possibilities in the ceramic studio, but using a clay extruder can be hard on your body. In this article, an excerpt from the November 2025 issue of Ceramics Monthly, Bill Schwenzer shares practical advice on how to mount, operate, and fine-tune your extruder for smoother and more ergonomic use.
Drawing from personal studio experience, he explains how to install the extruder securely and minimize strain through clever adaptations, like a load-bearing strap for the plunger handle. Whether you’re setting up an extruder for the first time or looking to optimize your current setup, these tips will help make the process easier, safer, and more productive. –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
For my own extruder setup and installation, I mounted the extruder to the wall using a pressure-treated board for strength and durability. My studio is often exposed to the heat and humidity, and this helps to preserve it. Strong lag screws are used to secure the board into a wall stud and to mount the extruder to the board.
Installation Suggestions
I am 6 feet 2 inches (1.9 m) tall, and the following guidelines consider my height and arm reach. I set the die-exit height of the extruder to 4 feet 4 inches (1.3 m) off the floor (1).
Using an extruder can be tough on your body, especially when working with hollow tubes or complex dies. The downward force required often puts unnecessary strain on your upper body. A simple way to reduce that stress is to use an adjustable, load-bearing strap attached to the plunger handle. Any strong strap that can hold onto the handle grip and be adjusted will suffice for this need (1).
This allows you to rely on your leg strength and body weight instead of just your arms. Attach the strap close to the end of the handle to maximize leverage. Adjust the length so you get a strong, comfortable downward stroke. A typical stroke will be 2 feet (61 cm), from handle upward to just below horizontal (2). Again, based on your individual height and arm reach, you will need to find a strap length adjustment, handle height start, and ending position that works for you. Your starting position will require you to lift your leg up enough to fit into the strap loop, approximately 2 feet (61 cm).
I have my worktable at a height of 30 inches (76.2 cm) with one side dedicated to the vertical extruding and the rest for ware boards to lay them down. I’ve also added a one-handed cut-off wire below the extruder to make removing pieces quick and easy (3, 4). I attached it to the left side, opposite my dominant right hand that does the cutting, while my left hand holds the extrusion during the cut. I have not needed to replace the cut-off wire yet due to breakage, but when the time comes, it will be easy to do so.
the author Bill Schwenzer is a mechanical engineer who became a full-time potter after being familiar with clay for over 30 years. He lives in Ocala, Florida, and is passionate about community and encouraging potters on social media. He shares many of his processes and always provides assistance to those learning to enjoy clay. For a closer look at this method and more pottery tips, check out Instagram @aliveguy_potteryand/or his personal Facebook page dedicated to making pots.
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Published Oct 27, 2025
For my own extruder setup and installation, I mounted the extruder to the wall using a pressure-treated board for strength and durability. My studio is often exposed to the heat and humidity, and this helps to preserve it. Strong lag screws are used to secure the board into a wall stud and to mount the extruder to the board.
Installation Suggestions
I am 6 feet 2 inches (1.9 m) tall, and the following guidelines consider my height and arm reach. I set the die-exit height of the extruder to 4 feet 4 inches (1.3 m) off the floor (1).
Using an extruder can be tough on your body, especially when working with hollow tubes or complex dies. The downward force required often puts unnecessary strain on your upper body. A simple way to reduce that stress is to use an adjustable, load-bearing strap attached to the plunger handle. Any strong strap that can hold onto the handle grip and be adjusted will suffice for this need (1).
This allows you to rely on your leg strength and body weight instead of just your arms. Attach the strap close to the end of the handle to maximize leverage. Adjust the length so you get a strong, comfortable downward stroke. A typical stroke will be 2 feet (61 cm), from handle upward to just below horizontal (2). Again, based on your individual height and arm reach, you will need to find a strap length adjustment, handle height start, and ending position that works for you. Your starting position will require you to lift your leg up enough to fit into the strap loop, approximately 2 feet (61 cm).
I have my worktable at a height of 30 inches (76.2 cm) with one side dedicated to the vertical extruding and the rest for ware boards to lay them down. I’ve also added a one-handed cut-off wire below the extruder to make removing pieces quick and easy (3, 4). I attached it to the left side, opposite my dominant right hand that does the cutting, while my left hand holds the extrusion during the cut. I have not needed to replace the cut-off wire yet due to breakage, but when the time comes, it will be easy to do so.
the author Bill Schwenzer is a mechanical engineer who became a full-time potter after being familiar with clay for over 30 years. He lives in Ocala, Florida, and is passionate about community and encouraging potters on social media. He shares many of his processes and always provides assistance to those learning to enjoy clay. For a closer look at this method and more pottery tips, check out Instagram @aliveguy_pottery and/or his personal Facebook page dedicated to making pots.
Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
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