Becoming familiar with a wall-mounted manual extruder doesn’t need to be difficult. The following are tips on ways to install, simplify operation, and ease the use of a resourceful piece of studio equipment.
For my own extruder setup and installation, I mounted the extruder to the wall using a pressure-treated board for strength and durability. My studio is often exposed to the heat and humidity, and this helps to preserve it. Strong lag screws are used to secure the board into a wall stud and to mount the extruder to the board.
Installation Suggestions
I am 6 feet 2 inches (1.9 m) tall, and the following guidelines consider my height and arm reach. I set the die-exit height of the extruder to 4 feet 4 inches (1.3 m) off the floor (1).
Using an extruder can be tough on your body, especially when working with hollow tubes or complex dies. The downward force required often puts unnecessary strain on your upper body. A simple way to reduce that stress is to use an adjustable, load-bearing strap attached to the plunger handle. Any strong strap that can hold onto the handle grip and be adjusted will suffice for this need (1).
This allows you to rely on your leg strength and body weight instead of just your arms. Attach the strap close to the end of the handle to maximize leverage. Adjust the length so you get a strong, comfortable downward stroke. A typical stroke will be 2 feet (61 cm), from handle upward to just below horizontal (2). Again, based on your individual height and arm reach, you will need to find a strap length adjustment, handle height start, and ending position that works for you. Your starting position will require you to lift your leg up enough to fit into the strap loop, approximately 2 feet (61 cm).
I have my worktable at a height of 30 inches (76.2 cm) with one side dedicated to the vertical extruding and the rest for ware boards to lay them down. I’ve also added a one-handed cut-off wire below the extruder to make removing pieces quick and easy (3, 4). I attached it to the left side, opposite my dominant right hand that does the cutting, while my left hand holds the extrusion during the cut. I have not needed to replace the cut-off wire yet due to breakage, but when the time comes, it will be easy to do so.
Using Your Extruder
As you complete each stroke, emptying the clay in the extruder, you will have a similar stroke distance and only need to make small strap adjustments as you ratchet your handle for additional strokes. As you near the end of your available clay, pay attention to the plunger position and ease up as it reaches its limit to protect your die.
With this method, extruding tubes or running dies that usually require more force becomes much more manageable. If you position yourself well, you can keep one hand on the handle while the other guides the clay as it exits the die. This provides greater control and helps prevent twisting or uneven extrusions.
I prefer working with soft commercial clay that is not freshly made when extruding tubes or hollow forms. It moves through the extruder easily, but still holds its shape during handling. Fresh clay is great for small, solid extrusions typically used for handles or coils.
Note: For safety and comfort, I wear sneakers, which give the strap a solid platform to push against while keeping my feet protected.
Remember, being kind to our bodies is just as important as the work itself. Finding ways to reduce strain should always be part of the process for potters.
the author Bill Schwenzer is a mechanical engineer who became a full-time potter after being familiar with clay for over 30 years. He lives in Ocala, Florida, and is passionate about community and encouraging potters on social media. He shares many of his processes and always provides assistance to those learning to enjoy clay. For a closer look at this method and more pottery tips, check out Instagram @aliveguy_potteryand/or his personal Facebook page dedicated to making pots.
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Becoming familiar with a wall-mounted manual extruder doesn’t need to be difficult. The following are tips on ways to install, simplify operation, and ease the use of a resourceful piece of studio equipment.
For my own extruder setup and installation, I mounted the extruder to the wall using a pressure-treated board for strength and durability. My studio is often exposed to the heat and humidity, and this helps to preserve it. Strong lag screws are used to secure the board into a wall stud and to mount the extruder to the board.
Installation Suggestions
I am 6 feet 2 inches (1.9 m) tall, and the following guidelines consider my height and arm reach. I set the die-exit height of the extruder to 4 feet 4 inches (1.3 m) off the floor (1).
Using an extruder can be tough on your body, especially when working with hollow tubes or complex dies. The downward force required often puts unnecessary strain on your upper body. A simple way to reduce that stress is to use an adjustable, load-bearing strap attached to the plunger handle. Any strong strap that can hold onto the handle grip and be adjusted will suffice for this need (1).
This allows you to rely on your leg strength and body weight instead of just your arms. Attach the strap close to the end of the handle to maximize leverage. Adjust the length so you get a strong, comfortable downward stroke. A typical stroke will be 2 feet (61 cm), from handle upward to just below horizontal (2). Again, based on your individual height and arm reach, you will need to find a strap length adjustment, handle height start, and ending position that works for you. Your starting position will require you to lift your leg up enough to fit into the strap loop, approximately 2 feet (61 cm).
I have my worktable at a height of 30 inches (76.2 cm) with one side dedicated to the vertical extruding and the rest for ware boards to lay them down. I’ve also added a one-handed cut-off wire below the extruder to make removing pieces quick and easy (3, 4). I attached it to the left side, opposite my dominant right hand that does the cutting, while my left hand holds the extrusion during the cut. I have not needed to replace the cut-off wire yet due to breakage, but when the time comes, it will be easy to do so.
Using Your Extruder
As you complete each stroke, emptying the clay in the extruder, you will have a similar stroke distance and only need to make small strap adjustments as you ratchet your handle for additional strokes. As you near the end of your available clay, pay attention to the plunger position and ease up as it reaches its limit to protect your die.
With this method, extruding tubes or running dies that usually require more force becomes much more manageable. If you position yourself well, you can keep one hand on the handle while the other guides the clay as it exits the die. This provides greater control and helps prevent twisting or uneven extrusions.
I prefer working with soft commercial clay that is not freshly made when extruding tubes or hollow forms. It moves through the extruder easily, but still holds its shape during handling. Fresh clay is great for small, solid extrusions typically used for handles or coils.
Note: For safety and comfort, I wear sneakers, which give the strap a solid platform to push against while keeping my feet protected.
Remember, being kind to our bodies is just as important as the work itself. Finding ways to reduce strain should always be part of the process for potters.
the author Bill Schwenzer is a mechanical engineer who became a full-time potter after being familiar with clay for over 30 years. He lives in Ocala, Florida, and is passionate about community and encouraging potters on social media. He shares many of his processes and always provides assistance to those learning to enjoy clay. For a closer look at this method and more pottery tips, check out Instagram @aliveguy_pottery and/or his personal Facebook page dedicated to making pots.
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