Try this innovative solution that puts ergonomics first while bringing comfort, control, and flexibility to your pottery wheel for seated and standing throwing.

Adjustments and Compromises 

Most pottery wheels are built for one set height. Potters adapt by adjusting chairs, stacking blocks, or accepting an awkward posture. Switching between sitting and standing often requires a second wheel setup. In teaching spaces, the problem grows when one wheel height fits one body but not another. Over time, these compromises lead to fatigue, strain, and less control at the wheel. 

I ran into these limits in my home studio when I wanted the option to throw both sitting and standing. When students came over to my home studio, the wheel setup was not adequate for everyone. The wheel height worked for my body but not for theirs. Several students were much taller than I am, and no amount of chair adjustment made the wheel comfortable or ergonomic. The issue was not technique—the issue was wheel height. 

Materials

  • Electric scissor lift with a 350-pound capacity
  • One sheet of ½-inch (1.3-cm)-thick plywood, 2 feet × 4 feet (61 cm × 1.2 m) 
  • Four sets of ½-inch (1.3-cm)-long bolts and nuts, sized to fit your scissor lift mounting holes 
  • White paint or sealant for moisture protection 
  • Leveler tool to check alignment 
  • Jigsaw or band saw for cutting plywood 
  • Zip ties to secure cables 
  • Two ¼-inch (6.4-mm) wood screws 
  • Your pottery wheel

Why Wheel Height Matters

Wheel height plays a critical role in ergonomics. For seated throwing, the wheel head should sit slightly below elbow height when arms rest naturally at the sides. This keeps shoulders relaxed and allows strength to come from the torso rather than the arms. A wheel set too low encourages hunching. A wheel set too high lifts the shoulders and builds tension.

For standing throwing, the wheel head often aligns around mid-thigh to hip height, depending on body proportions and stance. Standing allows weight shifting and movement, which reduces fatigue during longer sessions.

1 Trace and cut the plywood platform to match the wheel’s footprint. 2 Drill mounting holes into the cut plywood and paint with a moisture-resistant paint to seal.

Building the Platform of the Lift Table 

Place the plywood on top of your pottery wheel and trace its footprint (1). Shape the platform so the side closest to the wheel head is slimmer than the opposite side. This allows you to sit or stand closer to the splash pan without the platform blocking access. 

Cut the shape using a jigsaw or a band saw if available, rounding all corners to reduce sharp edges and improve safety. Sand all of the edges thoroughly. 

Next, seal the plywood with paint or another moisture-resistant finish (2). This protects the wood from water and clay slurry that collects under wheels. 

3 Attach the painted platform to the lift, and then attach the controller to the underside of the plywood.

Assembling the Lift Table 

Center the plywood on the lift platform and mark the four mounting holes from the underside of the lift table. Drill through the plywood and secure the plywood to the lift using four sets of nuts and bolts, tightening evenly so the surface sits flat. 

Mount the lift controller to the underside of the plywood (3) using 1/4-inch (6.4-mm) wood screws once the plywood is secured. Secure the controller cables with zip ties (4) and make sure the power cable stays clear and unobstructed as the lift moves up and down. 

Before placing the pottery wheel, use a leveler to check the surface of the lift table. You can adjust the feet of the lift until the surface is evenly leveled, but make sure to test multiple spots and directions. 

Remove the legs from your pottery wheel and place the wheel on top of the lift table. My wheel is a Shimpo VL Whisper, which has removable legs and works well with this setup. Use the leveler again to check the wheel head. Adjust the lift feet as needed until the wheel head sits level. 

4 Zip tie the cables to keep them tidy and out of the way of the lift mechanism.

Using the Lift Table 

Plug in the lift table and use the remote control to test the full height range without clay. Confirm stability at both low and high positions before throwing. 

For seated throwing, lower the lift until the wheel head sits just below elbow height. Adjust your chair so your feet rest flat and your posture stays upright. Tip: Use a yoga block under your left foot to balance your hips and knees. 

For standing throwing, raise the lift to your preferred height around hip level. Keep knees soft and weight balanced. Moving between positions during a session helps reduce repetitive strain. 

Clay work demands attention not only to form but also to the body shaping it. Height, posture, and movement influence control and longevity at the wheel. Small adjustments made early protect joints, muscles, and focus over years of making. 

5 The fully assembled, adjustable-height wheel.

This adjustable wheel lift table setup (5) offers more than convenience. It supports better habits and long-term comfort. Pair a thoughtful studio setup with regular stretching, frequent breaks, and awareness of tension. Taking care of your body is part of taking care of your work and sustains a long life in the studio. Happy Potting. 

the author Bertha Alwan is an IT project manager who discovered pottery while living abroad as an expat in Singapore. She now works from her home studio in New Jersey. Bertha focuses on practical studio solutions, tips, and teaching approaches rooted in Asian influence. She shares her processes to promote studio efficiency. For more pottery tips, check out Instagram @made_by_bertha

1 https://amzn.to/47N28nP.

 

Previous April Issue Article                    Next April Issue Article

 

April 2026: Table of Contents


Must-Reads from Ceramics Monthly

Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
Topics: Ceramic Artists
Click the cover image to return to the Table of Contents