In the Studio: Mixing Casting Slip: Tips and Tricks David Scott Smith
Appears in the Nov/Dec 2020 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated.
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Editor's Note
In the Potter's Kitchen
In the Studio
Pottery Illustrated
A liquid clay body, also known as casting slip, cannot be made by simply adding an excessive amount of water to dry or wet clay. A dry mudflat is an excellent example of why adding additional water will not work: the particles spread further apart as extra water is added, and when the clay dries, it cracks and falls into pieces. Chemicals called deflocculants help liquify clay bodies without adding excess water. A deflocculant works like two magnets turned so the same charged poles face each other, creating a situation where the clay particles now repel one another. Added to a clay body in very small amounts, a deflocculant can liquify a clay body with approximately 40% water added by weight, which is not much more than the 20–30% of water that is usually added to mix clay for handbuilding or wheel throwing
Mixing casting slip can be tricky. I have learned a few tricks over the years that may help you mix your own casting slip successfully.
Mixing Casting Slip
Mason stains and oxides can be used to color or marbleize casting slip. Use a small amount of distilled water to pre-mix the stains before adding them to slip (4). Pre-diluting the stain will help it mix smoothly, without clumping. Run the colored slip through a 60–80-mesh sieve before using it. You can marbleize slip by pouring colored slips together. Be careful to not over mix or the colors will all blend together.
Troubleshooting
Why does the slip turn out like pudding?
Tips for Pouring/Casting Plaster Molds
- Plaster absorbs water from the slip and allows the clay walls to solidify, so the amount of time the slip sits in a mold determines the thickness of the clay walls (6). For example, if I’m casting translucent porcelain
, I only allow slip to sit in the mold for 15–30 seconds, which yields a piece with very thin walls. If I’m casting a coffee cup, I want the finished piece to be fairly thick, so I might leave slip in the mold for 15–20 minutes.
- As plaster wicks water from the slip, the slip level will drop in the mold; it’s important to continue to top off the level of slip until you’re ready to empty it (7). Designing your molds to have a reservoir for excess slip can help.
- Check the thickness of your cast by cutting a small divot in the clay that has built up on the reservoir wall. Once the walls are thick enough, invert the mold over a bucket and drain the excess slip (8).
- Only remove casts when they are firm enough to handle without deforming (9)
David Scott Smith is an assistant professor of ceramics at Salisbury University, in Salisbury, Maryland. He is the co-owner of Little Lane Pottery with his wife, Paula, who is also a potter. To see more of his work, visit https://davidscottsmithceramics.com or on Facebook @littlelanepottery.Related Content