![]() |
|
During a teapot demo, one of my students will inevitably ask about how As clay artists and potters, we’re always striving to express ourselves Here I demonstrate making a teapot in my own voice, and you |
|
For more great throwing and altering techniques, check out Three Great Pottery Wheel Throwing Techniques: Tips on Throwing Complex Pottery Forms Using Basic Throwing Skills, which is free to Ceramic Arts Daily subscribers. |
|
Making the Teapot Body |
![]() |
Begin by throwing a simple boxy form with 3/8-inch thick walls and a slightly smaller top than base. The simple shape I make reminds me of a Shaker form. Make a fairly shallow gallery in the rim for the lid. Using a heat gun or hair dryer, dry the teapot body to a soft leather hard then cut it off the wheel. A heat gun is an important tool for my process, but if you use one, remember to handle it safely and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.Mark lines for the facets as shown at left. |
![]() |
Using a Surform (rasp) tool, create the facets. I use a Surform instead of a wire faceting tool or a fettling knife because it gives me more control over thickness and the development of line because you can remove small amounts with each stroke. |
![]() |
Next, use a rounded rasp to bevel the bottom of the teapot. |
![]() |
This helps to visually lift the teapot off the table surface, as shown at left. |
![]() |
To create the handle, roll out a coil that’s slightly thicker in the middle and tapered on the ends. |
![]() |
Form it into a C or ear shape and place it on a plaster bat to dry to leather hard. Create facets by compressing the handle with a palette knife, then attach the handle to the teapot body when it is leather hard. |
![]() at one end and 1-1/4 inches at the base. You may want to roll out several spouts in the beginning to get the one that works best for your teapot body. Form the tapered coil into an S shape and allow it to set up to leather hard. Use a palette knife to form facets. Once the spout is shaped, cut it in half laterally, then draw a line about 3/16-inch from the edge and scoop out the interior of the spout. Re-attach the halves and set the spout aside to set up. Trace the spout opening onto the teapot. Create a series of holes in the teapot body where the spout will attach. Slip, score, and attach the spout when it is leather hard. (Note: Watch my video on this process in the Ceramic Arts Daily video archives!) |
|
This article appeared in the September/October 2009 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated Experts like Jeffrey provide detailed techniques in every issue of PMI. |
|
![]() |
Make the lid in three stages. First, throw the knob on the wheel. |
![]() |
With a heat gun, dry the knob to leather hard and cut it off the wheel. Use a palette knife to make the spiral facets. Throw the lid right side up and attach the knob on the wheel as shown at left. |
![]() |
Use a 3/16-inch hole cutter to create the steam hole in the top of the lid. |
Developing the Surface
After years of honing my skills, I finally realized that traditional Inspired by the concept of After the underglazes have dried, I begin sanding through the
Nichols uses a respirator and a hooded exhaust vent to manage the |
||
![]() or in areas that do not come in contact with food or drink. When fired, the Velvets and other underglazes have the durability of a matt glaze, but are not food safe. I then apply a food-safe liner glaze to the parts that will come in contact with food and fire the vessel again. After this firing, I coat the underglaze surface with a food-safe oil sealant (like Salad Bowl Finish, available from home centers) and wax used by woodworkers. This seals the outside surface and makes it fairly durable, but check the instructions on the containers for care and use of these products. |
||
![]() living in Kentucky. He exhibits his studio pottery nationally and internationally, and you can view more of his work at www.jeffreynichols.us. |
||
|
Comment
Comment
Hello Jeffrey,
Your directions include “Begin by throwing a simple boxy form with 3/8-inch thick walls and a slightly smaller top than base.” Is this boxy base, the top and the gallery all done at once, or is this a composite piece. I am a new potter, and I think I would find it difficult to throw the entire sides, flat base top and gallery in one fell swoop. Is this what you have done? How much clay did you use? Thank you.
Comment
Comment
awesome glazes
Comment
Comment
Thanks for the answer, Jeffrey. I really appreciate your taking time to post this video–It’s given me several exciting new ideas. I used to make a stem and a gallery as you’ve done here, but I hate throwing hollow upside-down lids with an included stem. Of course, it’s also a pain to always have to hold the lid on when you’re pouring tea. At first I thought, “why make the lid in three pieces when it could be two,” but the more I consider it, the more I realize that this really will be easier and more accurate.
Comment
Comment
Hello Everybody,
To answer the question – the lid is not solid. I first throw a knob (solid), cut it off the wheel, and allow it to become leather hard. Using a palette knife, I than compress the knob to create the facets. View the video to see how I create the facets on the spout. It is the same technique. The lid is thrown right-side up. I attach the faceted knob while the lid is still on the wheel. After drying the lid to leather hard using a heat gun or hair dryer – remember safety first – I cut it off the wheel. I trim the bottom of the lid by hand. I then throw a hollow stem and allow it to dry to leather hard and cut it off the wheel. It is attached to the bottom of the lid. The hollow stem helps keep the lid well seated and assists in the steeping process. I hope that helps! Best, Jeffrey Nichols
Comment
Comment
Why not use a clear glaze over the underglazes? Wouldn’t that make it more durable than the oil finish?
Comment
Comment
Ye, I will like to know if the bottom of the lid is solid, thank you
Comment
Comment
Sometimes you will want to use a glaze on the outside of a food pot (such as a teapot, mug, bowl, etc.) that is not safe to use with food. Or you may just not want to test this glaze to see if it is food safe. To give themselves more freedom esthetically in decorating the outer surface of a food vessel, many potters will use a different glaze on the inside and sometimes the rim–one that is proven to be food safe. Such a glaze will normally contain no potentially toxic metals such as cobalt, copper, manganese, etc. They will typically be clear, white, or tan to brown because of having no colorants, or having only iron as a colorant.
Comment
Comment
What are food safe liner glazes?
Comment
Comment
Oops–I meant, Is the lid solid, then? (blush)
Comment
Comment
Is the spout solid, then?
Comment
Comment
Anne – The spout is covered in this video in the CAD archives: /daily/features/how-to-make-a-properly-functioning-handbuilt-spout-for-a-teapot/
It is also explained in Step 7 above.
Comment
Comment
how did you make the spout?