How to Glaze the Inside and Outside of a Pot in One Fell Swoop!

Get a drip-free coat of glaze on your pots in one move!

How to Glaze

If you’ve ever struggled with getting an even, drip-free coat of glaze on a pot when dipping, today’s post is for you. In this excerpt from his new video The Stroke and the Splash, Sam Scott shares his brilliant double-dipping technique for getting an even coat of glaze on the inside and outside of a vessel in one fell swoop. Best of all, not only does this technique produce great results, it saves time too! –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor.

This clip was excerpted from The Stroke and the Splash with Sam Scott, which is available in the Ceramic Arts Network Shop.

CLAYflicks subscribers can view this and all of CAN’s full-length videos on CLAYflicks! Not a subscriber yet? No problem—click here to sign up for a no-risk trial.

How to Glaze

  • Shimona K.

    You say you don’t wax the bottom of your cup/pot, but can I do that? Do you have problems with drip from runny glazes like blues? Thanks. It seems like a great method.

    • Shimona, waxing your pot only keeps glaze off that area while you are applying the glaze. It does not keep glaze from running to the bottom if it is over fired or applied too thickly. Runny glazes do not move until much higher temperatures than the wax burns away. So when the glaze melts the wax is gone any way. Also, I find you have to clean the glaze beads off the wax so you are cleaning it anyway. Wax does give a clean edge and I do wax lids and flanges and pie plates that I dip the whole piece into the glaze. As for blue glazes, cobalt (and most coloring oxides) can flux (lower the temperature) so if it is put on the glaze or in the glaze it could make it more runny. You need to be careful with the base glaze when adding oxides. My glaze does not move too much when I do brushwork. But, remember wax does not stop a moving glaze when it is being fired.

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