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Published Aug 28, 2023

Jasperware pottery was developed in the 1800s by Josiah Wedgwood and is still being made to this day in Josiah’s home county of Staffordshire, England. The most famous examples are iconic "Wedgwood Blue" pots with the classic white low-relief sprig decoration.

If you're interested in making Jasperware-inspired pottery with sprigged decoration, there is a great article in the September 2023 issue of Ceramics Monthly! In this excerpt, Ross Pollard demonstrates how to create a detailed sprig mold with plaster and plasticine clay. –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor

PS. To learn more, including how to make colored clay and fire sprigged ware, check out the September 2023 issue of Ceramics Monthly.

Jasperware, an unglazed stoneware ornamented with white clay figures on a colored ground, was developed in the 1770s by the English potter Josiah Wedgwood (1730–1795). One of Wedgwood’s earliest and most profitable uses for Jasperware was in the production of exquisitely detailed portrait medallions. While Wedgwood’s original Jasperware formula remains proprietary, this article outlines an approach to making Jasperware-inspired medallions using ordinary stoneware clay in conjunction with traditional modeling and sprigging techniques. 

Modeling 

The first step in creating a Jasperware-style medallion is to model a bas-relief figure in wax, plasticine, or clay. For this demonstration, I chose to model a 3-inch portrait of Pierre Beaumarchais in the traditional 18th-century manner; with white wax on slate using homemade bone modeling tools (1). Whatever sculpting medium you chose, be sure to avoid undercuts in your model, which could make molding and sprigging difficult. 

1 Model a bas-relief figure in wax or plasticine, avoiding all undercuts. 2 Before pouring a plaster mold, brush on a light coating of oil to act as a separator and run a fence of clay around the figure.

Molding 

From the finished model, the next step is to make a plaster sprig mold. To contain the plaster and prevent it from sticking, brush on a thin coating of a release agent and run a clay fence around the perimeter of the modeling board. Next, mix up a batch of plaster and slowly pour it into one corner, allowing it to flow over and around the relief (2). After a few hours, separate the hardened plaster from the model and chamfer any jagged corners with a knife before setting the mold aside to dry (3). 

3 Chamfer the edges of the mold with a knife to prevent them from chipping.4 When the plaster is dry, press clay into the mold cavity with your fingers.

Sprigging 

When the plaster is dry, select a smooth earthenware clay with good plasticity and press it into the mold cavity (4). Then, use a wooden rib to trim off the surplus, being careful not to tear the impression (5). Gently release the sprig with a spatula, palette knife, or piece of wet clay and slide it onto a damp plaster bat (6). 

5 Level the clay with a wooden rib, working slowly to avoid tearing the impression. 6 Gently release the sprig from the mold with a palette knife, spatula or lump of clay.

the author Ross Pollard is a medallic artist living in rural Minnesota. He holds a degree in art history from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and is self-taught in the art of bas-relief modeling.