The
inspiration for a ceramic and brass wire stand came while deep in the design and DIY stage of planning my wedding last fall. The finished stands held name cards and were gifted as favors for holding printed photo strips from the photo booth. Since
then, I’ve put the extras to use holding labels for dishes at potlucks, to display holiday cards, and more. The more I reflect on my own ethos on working, the more critical it feels to make things that earn their keep. I find making an object
that is multi-use to be a satisfying challenge, and recognize that multi-purpose pieces have the potential to be more marketable. Here’s how I made these stands, though I encourage you to adapt the tips below to suit your own preferences, designs,
and aesthetics.
Forming the Clay Bases
From a fresh block of low-fire red earthenware, roll even, thick coils that measure about an inch in diameter. Cut the coils into segments measuring 1–1½ inches (2.5–3.8 cm). The more consistent you are in cutting these pieces, the less variation in size there will be in the finished bases. Pinch, texture, and sculpt each piece, establishing and maintaining a wide, solid bottom for stability (1).
At the top of the form, create a relatively flat area (about ¼ inch (6.4 mm)). Use a tapered wooden tool to bore a channel into the clay about ¾ inch (2 cm) deep (2). Do not poke through to the bottom of the form. Tip: Mark the depth on your tool so that each channel is uniform. Twist the wooden tool as you pull it out to preserve the space created. This is where the wire component will later be inserted. I recommend keeping this channel as narrow as possible, while accounting for shrinkage plus two thicknesses of wire. Mine are less than a ¼ inch (6.4 mm) at the widest point (at the opening) and taper narrower due to the shape of the tool used.
Smooth and refine the clay bases as they dry. Angle the bottom edge of each to provide a clear glazing line, wipe the bottoms smooth, and bisque fire them once they are bone dry. Note: Since these pieces are quite thick, allow ample time
to dry completely and fire with a preheat. Apply glaze by dipping or brushing, but avoid getting glaze in the channel, and fire.
Bending and Attaching the Wire
The wire component of these stands provides a visual break between the photo or card it holds and the solid ceramic base, and the possibilities are endless in terms of height and shape. Cut a 6½-inch (16.5-cm) length of wire (16-gauge, half-hard
brass wire from riogrande.com) (3). Holding the wire at the 1½-inch (3.8-cm) mark with flat-nose pliers, fold the wire completely so the two legs run parallel. Shift down about a half inch, turn the wire a quarter turn, then fold the wire
again. Repeat turning and folding the wire to create a W shape with three folded prongs (4).
Dry fit the folded wire into the channel of one base, trimming one or both ends as needed. Note how far down the ends of the wire will be buried, (5) then use rough sandpaper or wire cutters to rough up the ends of the wire—this allows the adhesive
to better grip the wire in the next steps. Mix a two-part epoxy (I use JB Weld) (6), use a toothpick to apply a small amount to the ends of the wire (7), then insert the wire into the channel. If needed, secure the wire in place with tape as the epoxy
cures (8). Once the epoxy is fully cured, the wire can be pinched or bent slightly to adjust the tension at the prongs (9).
Katie Reaver, originally a Virginia native and now an Ohio resident, is the associate editor of Pottery Making Illustrated and the interim editor of Ceramics Monthly.
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Forming the Clay Bases
From a fresh block of low-fire red earthenware, roll even, thick coils that measure about an inch in diameter. Cut the coils into segments measuring 1–1½ inches (2.5–3.8 cm). The more consistent you are in cutting these pieces, the less variation in size there will be in the finished bases. Pinch, texture, and sculpt each piece, establishing and maintaining a wide, solid bottom for stability (1).
At the top of the form, create a relatively flat area (about ¼ inch (6.4 mm)). Use a tapered wooden tool to bore a channel into the clay about ¾ inch (2 cm) deep (2). Do not poke through to the bottom of the form. Tip: Mark the depth on your tool so that each channel is uniform. Twist the wooden tool as you pull it out to preserve the space created. This is where the wire component will later be inserted. I recommend keeping this channel as narrow as possible, while accounting for shrinkage plus two thicknesses of wire. Mine are less than a ¼ inch (6.4 mm) at the widest point (at the opening) and taper narrower due to the shape of the tool used.
Smooth and refine the clay bases as they dry. Angle the bottom edge of each to provide a clear glazing line, wipe the bottoms smooth, and bisque fire them once they are bone dry. Note: Since these pieces are quite thick, allow ample time to dry completely and fire with a preheat. Apply glaze by dipping or brushing, but avoid getting glaze in the channel, and fire.
Bending and Attaching the Wire
The wire component of these stands provides a visual break between the photo or card it holds and the solid ceramic base, and the possibilities are endless in terms of height and shape. Cut a 6½-inch (16.5-cm) length of wire (16-gauge, half-hard brass wire from riogrande.com) (3). Holding the wire at the 1½-inch (3.8-cm) mark with flat-nose pliers, fold the wire completely so the two legs run parallel. Shift down about a half inch, turn the wire a quarter turn, then fold the wire again. Repeat turning and folding the wire to create a W shape with three folded prongs (4).
Dry fit the folded wire into the channel of one base, trimming one or both ends as needed. Note how far down the ends of the wire will be buried, (5) then use rough sandpaper or wire cutters to rough up the ends of the wire—this allows the adhesive to better grip the wire in the next steps. Mix a two-part epoxy (I use JB Weld) (6), use a toothpick to apply a small amount to the ends of the wire (7), then insert the wire into the channel. If needed, secure the wire in place with tape as the epoxy cures (8). Once the epoxy is fully cured, the wire can be pinched or bent slightly to adjust the tension at the prongs (9).
Katie Reaver, originally a Virginia native and now an Ohio resident, is the associate editor of Pottery Making Illustrated and the interim editor of Ceramics Monthly.
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