Handmade, ceramic dinnerware plates are the star of your kitchen table. They must be durable for heavy use, attractive to impress guests, and efficient to clean and store. It may often be a challenge for potters to create matching plates due to the inconveniences that come with throwing them. I have combined the use of both slab building and wheel throwing to make creating plates more efficient and precise.
Preparing the Slab—Handbuilding
You will need a slab roller, or two wood planks (¼ inch (6 mm) thick) and a rolling pin. For a large dinner plate size, begin with 4 pounds (1.8 kg) of clay. I use a firmer clay body so that the plate will hold its shape during forming and firing. If you have a softer clay, allow it to sit out and dry a bit before you begin. The goal is to roll out the slab to be ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and large enough to cut a circle that is 14 inches (35.6 cm) in diameter (1). Be sure to compress your slab after rolling it. Next, I use a 14-inch (35.6-cm) bat as a guide to cut a clean circle (2). Now, you are ready to transfer the slab to the wheel.
Lifting the Walls—Wheel Throwing
Carefully, so as to not stretch it out, transfer the slab onto the center of the wheel. I use a bat on the wheel head for easy removal of the form later. With the wheel on low speed, use a needle tool to trim about a ½ inch (1.3 cm) off the edge of the slab, bringing the diameter to 13½ inches (34.3 cm) (3). This will center your slab on the wheel head and prevent your walls from being different heights.
Next, wet your fingertips and place your right hand under the edge of the slab and your left hand above for support (4). As the wheel spins on low, you can now slowly lift up the walls (5). I bring the walls up to a 90° angle measuring 1½ inches (3.8 cm) tall (6). This is when you can choose your style by altering the height or angle of the walls.
After lifting the walls, a large plate should be around 11–13 inches (28–33 cm) in diameter. You can now transfer the plate, on the bat, to a covered area and allow it to dry to leather hard.
Cleaning and Preparing to Dry
At a firm leather hard, it is time to remove the plate from the bat. I urge you not to use a wire tool to cut the plate off because that may lead to an uneven bottom. Instead, place both hands around the edges of the plate and rotate them as you slowly pull up until it pops off. If it is sticking or peeling then you may need to be more patient and let it dry longer so that it does not tear.
Next, smooth and refine the plate with your tool of choice. I use a rubber rib to clean up the bottom, walls, and inside (7, 8). I prefer the bottom of my plate to be flat for clean stacking, but you may choose to add a foot. Make sure to add your stamp, signature, or any carving designs at this point.
Drying to Prevent Warping
I often get questions about how I prevent warping while the plates are drying. There are a couple of precautions you can take. The first is compressing your initial slab during the first step of the process. Another tip is to dry them very slowly, keeping your plates covered for a week or so, after they reach leather hard, but before you totally expose them to dry. As you check on them, if you notice any warping, you may add small weights onto the center part of the plate to hold it down in place.
Finishing Touches
I use a speckled stoneware mid-fire clay body. I bisque fire to cone 04 and glaze fire to cone 6. I often use glazes with a shine for easy gliding of utensils onto the plates. I personally only glaze the inside of the plate where the food will touch because I love the bare clay contrast on the outside (9). Make sure to check the glazes you use to ensure they are food safe. I would not recommend using any metallic lusters because they are not microwave safe.
Cheri Downey is a ceramic artist from Northern California, who now resides in Huntsville, Alabama. She primarily creates functional and durable dinnerware sets, mugs, vases, and luminaries. To see more of her work, visit Instagram @cher_ceramicsor cherceramics.com.
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Handmade, ceramic dinnerware plates are the star of your kitchen table. They must be durable for heavy use, attractive to impress guests, and efficient to clean and store. It may often be a challenge for potters to create matching plates due to the inconveniences that come with throwing them. I have combined the use of both slab building and wheel throwing to make creating plates more efficient and precise.
Preparing the Slab—Handbuilding
You will need a slab roller, or two wood planks (¼ inch (6 mm) thick) and a rolling pin. For a large dinner plate size, begin with 4 pounds (1.8 kg) of clay. I use a firmer clay body so that the plate will hold its shape during forming and firing. If you have a softer clay, allow it to sit out and dry a bit before you begin. The goal is to roll out the slab to be ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and large enough to cut a circle that is 14 inches (35.6 cm) in diameter (1). Be sure to compress your slab after rolling it. Next, I use a 14-inch (35.6-cm) bat as a guide to cut a clean circle (2). Now, you are ready to transfer the slab to the wheel.
Lifting the Walls—Wheel Throwing
Carefully, so as to not stretch it out, transfer the slab onto the center of the wheel. I use a bat on the wheel head for easy removal of the form later. With the wheel on low speed, use a needle tool to trim about a ½ inch (1.3 cm) off the edge of the slab, bringing the diameter to 13½ inches (34.3 cm) (3). This will center your slab on the wheel head and prevent your walls from being different heights.
Next, wet your fingertips and place your right hand under the edge of the slab and your left hand above for support (4). As the wheel spins on low, you can now slowly lift up the walls (5). I bring the walls up to a 90° angle measuring 1½ inches (3.8 cm) tall (6). This is when you can choose your style by altering the height or angle of the walls.
After lifting the walls, a large plate should be around 11–13 inches (28–33 cm) in diameter. You can now transfer the plate, on the bat, to a covered area and allow it to dry to leather hard.
Cleaning and Preparing to Dry
At a firm leather hard, it is time to remove the plate from the bat. I urge you not to use a wire tool to cut the plate off because that may lead to an uneven bottom. Instead, place both hands around the edges of the plate and rotate them as you slowly pull up until it pops off. If it is sticking or peeling then you may need to be more patient and let it dry longer so that it does not tear.
Next, smooth and refine the plate with your tool of choice. I use a rubber rib to clean up the bottom, walls, and inside (7, 8). I prefer the bottom of my plate to be flat for clean stacking, but you may choose to add a foot. Make sure to add your stamp, signature, or any carving designs at this point.
Drying to Prevent Warping
I often get questions about how I prevent warping while the plates are drying. There are a couple of precautions you can take. The first is compressing your initial slab during the first step of the process. Another tip is to dry them very slowly, keeping your plates covered for a week or so, after they reach leather hard, but before you totally expose them to dry. As you check on them, if you notice any warping, you may add small weights onto the center part of the plate to hold it down in place.
Finishing Touches
I use a speckled stoneware mid-fire clay body. I bisque fire to cone 04 and glaze fire to cone 6. I often use glazes with a shine for easy gliding of utensils onto the plates. I personally only glaze the inside of the plate where the food will touch because I love the bare clay contrast on the outside (9). Make sure to check the glazes you use to ensure they are food safe. I would not recommend using any metallic lusters because they are not microwave safe.
Cheri Downey is a ceramic artist from Northern California, who now resides in Huntsville, Alabama. She primarily creates functional and durable dinnerware sets, mugs, vases, and luminaries. To see more of her work, visit Instagram @cher_ceramics or cherceramics.com.
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