This cup and saucer set is a playful re-imagination of a project I developed early in my undergraduate studies, where I explored historical Mayan and Aztec cacao ceremonies and the handcrafted objects that accompanied them.
The design of these cups was drawn from childhood memories of drinking frothy hot chocolate from glass pedestal café cups. It was my intention with this recent work to create vessels that are both precious and whimsical, and allow us to enjoy a sense of indulgence in daily life.
The design continues to evolve and be refined as a canvas to explore color, decorative elements, and technical embellishments. Begin by preparing 1½ pounds (0.6 kg) of clay for the cup; ½ pound (0.2 kg) for the pedestal foot; and 1 pound (4 g) for the saucer.
Throwing the Pieces
Cup: Throw a tapered cylinder, 4½ inches (11.4 cm) with a narrow base, as you will trim the cup later to fit on to the pedestal foot. Shape the cylinder so that it bellies out and then forms a waist, just below the midline. Using the corner of a rectangular kidney tool, create a small edge just below the waist (1).
Pedestal Foot: Flatten out the centered clay ball to be roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and then use your index finger to pull up a short stem and flare out the rim to create a shallow bowl. This will be the attachment point for the cup (2).
Saucer: Throw a 5½ inch (13.9 cm) saucer with walls ¼ inch (0.6 cm) thick. The walls need to be thick enough to carry the puffy handles. Leave the inside of the saucer bare, as the indentation for the cup to sit inside will be trimmed in later. Use a sponge to compress the rim of the saucer. Using the shaping tool, press it into the middle of the rim while the wheel spins, creating a split rim (3).
Trimming and Assembling
Once the three pieces have firmed to a leather-hard stage, trim them, starting with the pedestal foot. Attach it to the wheel so it’s right way up. Use a narrow looped trimming tool to define the curve so that the pedestal is presenting the cup elegantly.
Trim the bottom of the cup to a narrow base. This base needs to fit into the short-stemmed section of the foot, so make sure it’s the right diameter (4).
Attaching the Foot
While attached to the wheel, slip and score the trimmed cup, then attach the pedestal foot to the upside-down cup. Slowly spin the wheel and making any adjustments to ensure the pedestal is sitting flat. Tip: I have a mirror in front of me at the wheel and this really helps me to see the attachment angle of the foot.
Using the rubber shaping tool, make two indented lines where the pedestal meets the mug with a ¼-inch (6-mm) gap between them to add a detailed edge to the foot (5). Clean up the edges and trim the underside of the foot so that it is slightly concave and sits stable in the saucer well.
Refining the Saucer
Using your index finger and thumb pinch the two parts of the saucer edge together to create a frilly edge before it’s trimmed (6). Attach the saucer to the wheel right side up. Trim out a well for the cup to sit snugly in the indentation.
Next, trim a basic foot ring into the underside of the saucer. I use a foam bat to do this on as it doesn’t dent the frilly edge.
Carving the Cup
Carve the top section of the cup to initiate the pattern that will continue over the whole piece. Begin by making small marks to divide the top section of the cup into eight segments. From each mark, use a craft knife to draw a convex half-diamond shape and repeat it around the cup.
Using a carving tool with a straight edge, remove clay from within the pattern, creating a smooth transition into the bottom of the cup (7). Use a sponge to neaten up all the edges and remove any marks left from the tool.
Adding the Handle
Weigh out 1 oz of clay and pinch it into a bone-like shape; narrower at the center and wider at both ends. To achieve the wider ends, press each end into a flat surface to flatten out the clay and make a larger area to attach.
On the top join of the handle, use your index finger and press down three points along the join to create a frill-like detail. Add water to the handle and begin pulling to stretch it out and remove any pinch impressions, eventually attaching the other end to the cup (8).
Applying Pattern
Using a craft knife, continue the diamond pattern by extending the drawing into the belly of the cup (9). The bottom of the diamond finishes where the cup meets the pedestal foot. It may help to turn the cup upside down to finish off these lines.
Next, divide the foot into four sections. Turn the cup upside down and cut small V-shapes at each point (10). Use your fingers and a sponge to smooth the cuts, creating rounded edges.
Make the little buttons to place at the intersection of the diamond patterns by rolling out a small coil of clay and cutting tiny bits. Roll them between your fingers to create little balls and using water, attach them to the cup (11).
Embellishing the Saucer
Roll out a ¼-inch (6-mm)-thick slab. Use a 2½ inch (6.3 cm) cookie cutter to cut out two discs. To create puffy handles for two sides of the saucer, wrap the disc of clay around a spout former or any round wooden tool that is roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick (12). Remove the wooden tool and join the edges to create an enclosed form. Use a soft rib to smooth over the seam.
To attach the puffy handles to the saucer, cut and remove a sliver of clay (13), creating an open form which can attach to the saucer edge. Attach the puffy handle around the saucer edge (14). Repeat this step on the other side. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole into the puffy handle to allow air to escape.
Forming the Curly Bits
Roll out a small slab ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Cut out four tall triangles roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) tall with a base of 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Smooth the edges by placing a bit of plastic over the triangle and running your fingers along the edges. Use your index finger to slowly wind up the slab from the narrower edge to the wider edge to create a curl (15). Tip: Add a bit of moisture to the underside of the triangle to avoid the clay tearing if it’s dry. Attach the curly bits to where the puffy handle meets the saucer. Using a craft knife, draw in two half diamonds onto the saucer and add a button to each one (16).
Drying Tips
I use a plastic box with a thick layer of plaster at the bottom, which I keep wet to create a damp environment. This allows all of the components to homogenize and avoids cracking at later stages. Since my pieces have so many small joins and embellishments, the creation of this damp box has been really helpful.
For the pieces to become bone dry, I move them into an empty plastic box covered by a single sheet of cotton fabric. This ensures the pieces dry slowly and evenly.
Firing and Final Decorating
As the pieces approach bone dry, paint colored slip inside the diamonds on both the cup and saucer. I bisque fire the pieces to cone 06. After bisque, apply wax resist to wherever you painted on the slip. Once the wax has dried, dip the pieces into a bucket of glaze and sponge off any droplets of glaze remaining on the waxed areas. I glaze fire my pieces to cone 10 in an electric kiln and give the slipped areas a light sanding after firing (17).
Based in the Northern Rivers of Australia, Lucy Be blends traditional tableware forms with intricate patterning to evoke a sense of whimsical nostalgia. She holds a BA (Hons) in ceramic design from Central Saint Martins in London, and has exhibited her work in solo shows in both Australia and the US. You can follow her journey on Instagram @lucy_be.ceramics or www.lucybeceramics.com.
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This cup and saucer set is a playful re-imagination of a project I developed early in my undergraduate studies, where I explored historical Mayan and Aztec cacao ceremonies and the handcrafted objects that accompanied them.
The design of these cups was drawn from childhood memories of drinking frothy hot chocolate from glass pedestal café cups. It was my intention with this recent work to create vessels that are both precious and whimsical, and allow us to enjoy a sense of indulgence in daily life.
The design continues to evolve and be refined as a canvas to explore color, decorative elements, and technical embellishments. Begin by preparing 1½ pounds (0.6 kg) of clay for the cup; ½ pound (0.2 kg) for the pedestal foot; and 1 pound (4 g) for the saucer.
Throwing the Pieces
Cup: Throw a tapered cylinder, 4½ inches (11.4 cm) with a narrow base, as you will trim the cup later to fit on to the pedestal foot. Shape the cylinder so that it bellies out and then forms a waist, just below the midline. Using the corner of a rectangular kidney tool, create a small edge just below the waist (1).
Pedestal Foot: Flatten out the centered clay ball to be roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and then use your index finger to pull up a short stem and flare out the rim to create a shallow bowl. This will be the attachment point for the cup (2).
Saucer: Throw a 5½ inch (13.9 cm) saucer with walls ¼ inch (0.6 cm) thick. The walls need to be thick enough to carry the puffy handles. Leave the inside of the saucer bare, as the indentation for the cup to sit inside will be trimmed in later. Use a sponge to compress the rim of the saucer. Using the shaping tool, press it into the middle of the rim while the wheel spins, creating a split rim (3).
Trimming and Assembling
Once the three pieces have firmed to a leather-hard stage, trim them, starting with the pedestal foot. Attach it to the wheel so it’s right way up. Use a narrow looped trimming tool to define the curve so that the pedestal is presenting the cup elegantly.
Trim the bottom of the cup to a narrow base. This base needs to fit into the short-stemmed section of the foot, so make sure it’s the right diameter (4).
Attaching the Foot
While attached to the wheel, slip and score the trimmed cup, then attach the pedestal foot to the upside-down cup. Slowly spin the wheel and making any adjustments to ensure the pedestal is sitting flat. Tip: I have a mirror in front of me at the wheel and this really helps me to see the attachment angle of the foot.
Using the rubber shaping tool, make two indented lines where the pedestal meets the mug with a ¼-inch (6-mm) gap between them to add a detailed edge to the foot (5). Clean up the edges and trim the underside of the foot so that it is slightly concave and sits stable in the saucer well.
Refining the Saucer
Using your index finger and thumb pinch the two parts of the saucer edge together to create a frilly edge before it’s trimmed (6). Attach the saucer to the wheel right side up. Trim out a well for the cup to sit snugly in the indentation.
Next, trim a basic foot ring into the underside of the saucer. I use a foam bat to do this on as it doesn’t dent the frilly edge.
Carving the Cup
Carve the top section of the cup to initiate the pattern that will continue over the whole piece. Begin by making small marks to divide the top section of the cup into eight segments. From each mark, use a craft knife to draw a convex half-diamond shape and repeat it around the cup.
Using a carving tool with a straight edge, remove clay from within the pattern, creating a smooth transition into the bottom of the cup (7). Use a sponge to neaten up all the edges and remove any marks left from the tool.
Adding the Handle
Weigh out 1 oz of clay and pinch it into a bone-like shape; narrower at the center and wider at both ends. To achieve the wider ends, press each end into a flat surface to flatten out the clay and make a larger area to attach.
On the top join of the handle, use your index finger and press down three points along the join to create a frill-like detail. Add water to the handle and begin pulling to stretch it out and remove any pinch impressions, eventually attaching the other end to the cup (8).
Applying Pattern
Using a craft knife, continue the diamond pattern by extending the drawing into the belly of the cup (9). The bottom of the diamond finishes where the cup meets the pedestal foot. It may help to turn the cup upside down to finish off these lines.
Next, divide the foot into four sections. Turn the cup upside down and cut small V-shapes at each point (10). Use your fingers and a sponge to smooth the cuts, creating rounded edges.
Make the little buttons to place at the intersection of the diamond patterns by rolling out a small coil of clay and cutting tiny bits. Roll them between your fingers to create little balls and using water, attach them to the cup (11).
Embellishing the Saucer
Roll out a ¼-inch (6-mm)-thick slab. Use a 2½ inch (6.3 cm) cookie cutter to cut out two discs. To create puffy handles for two sides of the saucer, wrap the disc of clay around a spout former or any round wooden tool that is roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick (12). Remove the wooden tool and join the edges to create an enclosed form. Use a soft rib to smooth over the seam.
To attach the puffy handles to the saucer, cut and remove a sliver of clay (13), creating an open form which can attach to the saucer edge. Attach the puffy handle around the saucer edge (14). Repeat this step on the other side. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole into the puffy handle to allow air to escape.
Forming the Curly Bits
Roll out a small slab ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Cut out four tall triangles roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) tall with a base of 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Smooth the edges by placing a bit of plastic over the triangle and running your fingers along the edges. Use your index finger to slowly wind up the slab from the narrower edge to the wider edge to create a curl (15). Tip: Add a bit of moisture to the underside of the triangle to avoid the clay tearing if it’s dry. Attach the curly bits to where the puffy handle meets the saucer. Using a craft knife, draw in two half diamonds onto the saucer and add a button to each one (16).
Drying Tips
I use a plastic box with a thick layer of plaster at the bottom, which I keep wet to create a damp environment. This allows all of the components to homogenize and avoids cracking at later stages. Since my pieces have so many small joins and embellishments, the creation of this damp box has been really helpful.
For the pieces to become bone dry, I move them into an empty plastic box covered by a single sheet of cotton fabric. This ensures the pieces dry slowly and evenly.
Firing and Final Decorating
As the pieces approach bone dry, paint colored slip inside the diamonds on both the cup and saucer. I bisque fire the pieces to cone 06. After bisque, apply wax resist to wherever you painted on the slip. Once the wax has dried, dip the pieces into a bucket of glaze and sponge off any droplets of glaze remaining on the waxed areas. I glaze fire my pieces to cone 10 in an electric kiln and give the slipped areas a light sanding after firing (17).
Based in the Northern Rivers of Australia, Lucy Be blends traditional tableware forms with intricate patterning to evoke a sense of whimsical nostalgia. She holds a BA (Hons) in ceramic design from Central Saint Martins in London, and has exhibited her work in solo shows in both Australia and the US. You can follow her journey on Instagram @lucy_be.ceramics or www.lucybeceramics.com.
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