A Carved Pourer Kate Clark
Appears in the May/Jun 2023 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated.

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Editor's Note
In the Potter's Kitchen
In the Studio
Pottery Illustrated
What part of the pottery process do I find most fulfilling? For me, it’s all about the textured surface, as well as the form. I love the tactile nature that carving brings. I enjoy making a variety of pieces from stoneware clay that allow me to carve textured patterns. Ever since I had my first pottery lesson when my teacher gave me a carving tool, I became hooked. My small pourer is a good, fairly easy piece to show off a simple carving technique that engages the entire surface. It doesn’t have a handle and the style of spout creates character to the otherwise basic pourer.
Throwing the Body
Next, use a sponge on a stick to soak up the water in the base of the form (2). Use a wooden rib to straighten the sides (3), and then a metal rib to get rid of the excess slip and dry the surface. Use a small piece of chamois leather (or a thin piece of plastic will work) to smooth the rim.
Use a blunt knife to take away the skirt of clay at the base of the cylinder (4). Allow the form to dry to leather hard.
Throwing the Spout
Trimming the Pourer
Next, trim/turn the main body. When the cylinder is sufficiently dry, it will pop off the wooden bat. Center it on the wheel upside down, then use a sharp trimming tool to tidy up the sides if needed and trim the edge of the base at a 45° angle (8). This will create a little shadow, which will give a lightness to the piece when it’s on a table surface.
Assembling the Pourer
Carving the Exterior
Measure ⅘ inch (2 cm) from the top of the pourer. Center the piece on the wheel and lightly mark a line around the form while the wheel spins (12). This indicates where to start each carved line.
To carve the lines, I use the P2 tool from DiamondCore Tools, which produces a thickness of carved line that gives the overall look I am striving for. I aim to carve at roughly 1–2 mm depth (about 1/16 inch). I enjoy the challenge of getting the carved line as even and regular as I can. Because they’re hand carved, the lines give an effect that is visually interesting and feels good in the hand.
After finishing the carving and stamping your maker’s mark on the base, lightly sponge the piece to smooth the edges and remove any debris (13). Leave the form to dry slowly.
Firing
Next, dip the pourer into your glaze of choice to coat the exterior (15). I use a matte oat glaze because it creates toasty tones on the carved edges and contrasts nicely with the shiny white of the interior. Wipe the base clean and smooth out any drips. Finally, I fire the pourer to 2282°F (1250°C). I hope you have a go and you enjoy your making and carving. It’s addictive!
*hartleyandnoble.co.uk
Kate Clark is a trained graphic designer who lives in London, UK, with her husband and two boys and works from her pottery studio in her garden. Since learning pottery in New York City in 2016, she has evolved a style inspired by Japanese simplicity and appreciation of the handmade, to enjoy being used and looked at. Learn more at, www.kceramicsstudio.com or on Instagram at @k_ceramics.
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