Glaze Recipes and Expert Tips for Great Pottery Glazing Results

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In ceramics, finding the perfect glaze for your work is only part of the challenge. If the application is sloppy, it will show in the finished glazed piece!

So in today’s post, Frank James Fisher shares some handy tips to make sure your glaze goes on right. He also shares recipes for three cone 6 glazes that work very well together. –  Jennifer Harnetty, editor.


 

Always wipe bisqueware before firing to ensure a clean surface for the glaze to cling to, otherwise glaze can slide off an unwiped pot onto a kiln shlef during firing.

Always wipe bisqueware before firing to ensure a clean surface for the glaze to cling to, otherwise glaze can slide off an unwiped pot onto a kiln shlef during firing.

Glazing Tips

Glaze needs a firm clean surface to cling to, so always wipe bisqueware before glazing to prevent glaze from sliding off onto a kiln shelf during firing.

Glazing very dry bisque surfaces can result in an extra-thick glaze application, because the moisture from the wet glaze is quickly absorbed into the dry bisque, causing a thick layer of glaze to adhere. Wiping the surface with a damp sponge before glazing yields a thinner glaze layer. Don’t use too much water, however, which may cause the glaze to run off the bisque resulting in a thin or uneven coat.

 


This post is an excerpt from Glazing Techniques!
Learn more and download an excerpt here!


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The best sponges for glazing are the large wallpaper sponges sold at building supply stores. These sponges have small pores and are excellent for wiping wet glaze off pots. A large-pore sponge doesn’t last as long and leaves uneven edges.

If you need to wipe glaze off your pot, do so while the glaze is still wet. Wet glaze is removed more easily and results in less staining than if you wait until the glaze is dry on the pot.

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**First published in June 2009
Comments
  • There are no coloratns added to the Licorice Black or the Jade Green…..????? What’s up with that?

    Thanks,
    Barbara

  • This recipe is the same as Xavier’s warm jade. The colorants are copper carbonate 4% and Rutile 6% cone 6 oxidation.

  • Licorice Black colorants – Red Iron Oxide 9% and Cobalt Oxide 1.2%

  • will these work in electric kiln and how do you convert %into a form of measure

  • Licorice Black – someone please clarify what “4%t” means. Has this recipe been balanced to 100%? It doesn’t appear to be.

  • To get percents turned into a form of measure: add up the total of the base ingredients, and then multiply that by the _% you need for colorant. This works whether or not the glaze adds up to 100.

  • The above glazes are balanced to 100% or 100 parts. The list of materials above the line is your base glaze, and below the line is your colorants. Colorants are not included in the percentage of base glaze(materials above the line). To make 1,000 (1/2 gallon wet) gram batch, or 10,000 (5 gallons wet) gram batch multiply the parts per material by 10 or 100. Talc does not act as a colorant, it is used as a high MGo flux.

  • I am writing from Brazil. Never heard of Gillepsie Borate. can you specify? Thanks.

  • The Black Licorice glaze is from John Hesselberth’s and Ron Roy’s book Mastering Cone 6 Glazes (2002). It is a great black glaze when applied evenly and of medium thickness. When it is applied thinly it can be more of a brown glaze but it works great with other glazes.

  • This is late to answer but Talc does not act as a colorant. It can interact with a colorant to change what the color is. Cobalt will go from blue to purple with enough talc.

  • Are these glossy glazes or more in the Matte/Semi-Matte/Satin families? It’s very hard to tell from the photos, because of the flash reflections.

    Thanks!

  • Has anyone tried painting an underglaze on top of Licorice Black, like you can do with some glazes? Will it show up after firing? I’m working on a last-minute project and don’t have time for a test firing.

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