Wright’s Water Blue Glaze Recipe, Cone 1–6, Oxidation

Wright’s Water Blue Glaze Cone 1-6 Oxidation
Glaze Material
Lithium Carbonate 3%
Strontium Carbonate 9
Frit 3110 59
Edgar Plastic Kaolin 12
Flint 17
Total 100%
Bentonite 2%
Copper Carbonate 5%


  • Robert C.

    I love the color, but had terrible results with running and pooling at the bottom of the pot. Also I had significant pin holes all over the piece. I fired cone 6, oxidation. Any suggestion as to why the pin hole problem is occurring.

  • Hello, I am hoping someone out there can help me. I am living in Taiwan and making pots. For many years I used a cone 6 glaze from Laguna Clay called T-16 transparent. I can not get it here but am wondering if anyone knows the formula. I believe it came into being back in the 70’s. Thanks, Terry

  • Luba K.

    Hi David, I’m trying this recepie out & was wondering to what consistancy it is best at or the specific gravity?! Thanks , Luba

  • David W.

    My name is David Gary Wright and I created this glaze years ago. I was originally working at Cone 1-2 oxidation, but I decided to move up to Cone 4-5 oxidation instead, and the glaze worked better at that temperature. I started using the same glaze when I was doing Cone 6 salt firing. I had written an article for Ceramics Monthly in the late nineties, on converting an electric kiln into a Cone 6 salt-fired kiln. The glaze recipe and the bowl image came from that article. It was picked up and used by Ceramic Publications for a book and has been used since then in other websites. The glaze is high in sodium, and because of this, crazes a great deal. Like glazes with a broad range, the lower temperature results will be stiffer and less runny, while more fluid and runny as the glaze goes up in temperature. The other thing about the bowl in this photo is that it is also “Salt-fired” to Cone 5-6, which makes the glaze more turquoise, more pale, and smoother. If you have any questions about this glaze, you can write me at my website: http://www.davidgarywright.com.

  • Just finished using this glaze and love the color and what it does over raised surfaces BUT it did have crazing. Still great for vases. Does anyone have suggestions on how to stop the crazing…?

  • Jharnetty@ceramics.org H.


    Because of the many variables involved in glaze formulation, application and firing, we cannot guarantee food safety of any glaze recipes posted on Ceramic Arts Daily. So be sure to arm yourself with information! We encourage you to obtain a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) from your suppliers or manufacturers for all raw materials that you plan to use in the studio. Read and understand this information and follow the specific safety guidelines for working with each material you use.

    The best way to be certain of food safety is to have your finished pieces leach tested by a lab. There are many labs that conduct these tests. Here is a list, with links to their websites. You will need to read and follow their specific requirements:

    -the editors

  • Patricia R.

    I made up this glaze and it was runny and it crazed. I am concerned that it will leach
    copper and strontium. These glazes should say if they are tested for food safety. The example looks like a food dish with 2 different thicknesses of the same glaze, or an underglaze and water blue on top.
    It did look great as an accent over a yellow satin matte glaze I use, if applied very thin. It might look nice if sprayed over my satin matte. Will try. I will only use this glaze, as is, on sculptural work for now. It flows very nicely. I guess that’s why they call it water blue. Does anyone know who submitted this glaze?

  • Richard F.

    I like the color of this glaze, but have had significant crazing on white stoneware. The photo does not seem to show crazing, but the resolution may not be high enough to show this. Just wondering if anyone else has this problem with this glaze.

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