Paying attention to details all the way around a piece—including the bottoms—can be what separates an ordinary pot from an extraordinary one. One way to add interest to a foot is to use a wiggle/curly wire tool when cutting a piece off the wheel. There are commercial curly wires available, but if you can make your own, it makes the mark that much more special.
In this post, an excerpt from the May 2024 issue of Ceramics Monthly, Marc Borges explains how to make a custom curly wire on the cheap with readily available materials! And these wires have more uses than just cutting pots off the wheel. They make great faceting tools too! –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
Crafting
a curly wire tool offers not only a means of personalization but also significant cost savings compared to purchasing a pre-made tool. While commercial options are available, creating your own tool allows you to tailor its design and specifications
to your unique needs and preferences. With just a few basic materials and a touch of ingenuity, you can fashion a high-quality tool that rivals its store-bought counterparts at a fraction of the cost.
If you’re unfamiliar, the curly wire tool is fantastic for rapidly creating intricate textures. It can be used to facet pots vertically, horizontally, or both, offering endless possibilities when combined with the potter’s wheel. Or, simply
use it to cut pots off the wheel (as you would a regular wire) adding captivating detail underneath.
In addition to its texture and design appeal, the curly wire tool offers another practical benefit that sets it apart from standard wire tools. Its design creates channels in the clay as it cuts, facilitating the drying process by allowing air to circulate
more freely on the bottom of your pieces. This aids in preventing cracking and promotes more even drying, particularly in larger or thicker pieces where moisture retention can be a concern.
Instructions
Before getting started, I want to talk about the rod. The diameter of the rod used in the curling process significantly influences the appearance of the marks left by the wire tool. A thinner rod produces tighter curls, resulting in a denser texture
with finer details. Conversely, a thicker rod yields bigger curls, creating broader, more expressive marks. Artists can experiment with different rod diameters to achieve varying effects. A 4-inch (10.2-cm) rod is sufficient, though I used a 12-inch
(30.5-cm) because it’s what I had on hand. However, I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 4 inches (10.2 cm).
Begin by cutting a 24-inch (61-cm) length of wire with cutting pliers. Then, insert the rod into the drill chuck. Before securing it, slide the wire under one of the drill’s jaws, leaving approximately 4 inches (10.2 cm) of excess wire at the end
to attach handles. Tighten it firmly over the wire and rod, ensuring everything is securely held in place by the drill chuck.
As a right-handed person, I find it more convenient to grip the drill with my left hand. I guide the wire up and under the rod, pulling it toward me (1). Gradually pressing the drill’s trigger, maintain tension on the wire, ensuring it is spooled
tightly (2). After the majority of the length of wire has been spooled, stop to leave about 4 inches (10.2 cm) of straight wire at the end (3).
Next, the handles. While this component is optional, it significantly impacts comfort. Begin by cutting two 3-inch (7.6-cm) lengths of wooden dowel. Sand the edges if necessary to achieve a smooth and comfortable finish. At the middle of each dowel,
drill a hole through the diameter from one side to the other (4). Thread the straight wire ends through the holes (5) and twist the wire onto itself (use pliers for better results) to securely attach it (6).
The final step is to pull and stretch the wire to achieve the desired curliness (7–9). I advise against uncurling it too much, as it tends to naturally straighten out over time. However, if it does, you now know how to make a fresh one.
I hope you enjoy the process of making it. Now get creative in how you use it!
the author Marc Borges is an artist and self-taught ceramic artist from Montreal. He shares his art and tips on Instagram (@marcborgesart) and online at www.marcborges.com.
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Published May 6, 2024
Paying attention to details all the way around a piece—including the bottoms—can be what separates an ordinary pot from an extraordinary one. One way to add interest to a foot is to use a wiggle/curly wire tool when cutting a piece off the wheel. There are commercial curly wires available, but if you can make your own, it makes the mark that much more special.
In this post, an excerpt from the May 2024 issue of Ceramics Monthly, Marc Borges explains how to make a custom curly wire on the cheap with readily available materials! And these wires have more uses than just cutting pots off the wheel. They make great faceting tools too! –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
Crafting a curly wire tool offers not only a means of personalization but also significant cost savings compared to purchasing a pre-made tool. While commercial options are available, creating your own tool allows you to tailor its design and specifications to your unique needs and preferences. With just a few basic materials and a touch of ingenuity, you can fashion a high-quality tool that rivals its store-bought counterparts at a fraction of the cost.
If you’re unfamiliar, the curly wire tool is fantastic for rapidly creating intricate textures. It can be used to facet pots vertically, horizontally, or both, offering endless possibilities when combined with the potter’s wheel. Or, simply use it to cut pots off the wheel (as you would a regular wire) adding captivating detail underneath.
In addition to its texture and design appeal, the curly wire tool offers another practical benefit that sets it apart from standard wire tools. Its design creates channels in the clay as it cuts, facilitating the drying process by allowing air to circulate more freely on the bottom of your pieces. This aids in preventing cracking and promotes more even drying, particularly in larger or thicker pieces where moisture retention can be a concern.
Instructions
Before getting started, I want to talk about the rod. The diameter of the rod used in the curling process significantly influences the appearance of the marks left by the wire tool. A thinner rod produces tighter curls, resulting in a denser texture with finer details. Conversely, a thicker rod yields bigger curls, creating broader, more expressive marks. Artists can experiment with different rod diameters to achieve varying effects. A 4-inch (10.2-cm) rod is sufficient, though I used a 12-inch (30.5-cm) because it’s what I had on hand. However, I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 4 inches (10.2 cm).
Begin by cutting a 24-inch (61-cm) length of wire with cutting pliers. Then, insert the rod into the drill chuck. Before securing it, slide the wire under one of the drill’s jaws, leaving approximately 4 inches (10.2 cm) of excess wire at the end to attach handles. Tighten it firmly over the wire and rod, ensuring everything is securely held in place by the drill chuck.
As a right-handed person, I find it more convenient to grip the drill with my left hand. I guide the wire up and under the rod, pulling it toward me (1). Gradually pressing the drill’s trigger, maintain tension on the wire, ensuring it is spooled tightly (2). After the majority of the length of wire has been spooled, stop to leave about 4 inches (10.2 cm) of straight wire at the end (3).
Next, the handles. While this component is optional, it significantly impacts comfort. Begin by cutting two 3-inch (7.6-cm) lengths of wooden dowel. Sand the edges if necessary to achieve a smooth and comfortable finish. At the middle of each dowel, drill a hole through the diameter from one side to the other (4). Thread the straight wire ends through the holes (5) and twist the wire onto itself (use pliers for better results) to securely attach it (6).
The final step is to pull and stretch the wire to achieve the desired curliness (7–9). I advise against uncurling it too much, as it tends to naturally straighten out over time. However, if it does, you now know how to make a fresh one.
I hope you enjoy the process of making it. Now get creative in how you use it!
the author Marc Borges is an artist and self-taught ceramic artist from Montreal. He shares his art and tips on Instagram (@marcborgesart) and online at www.marcborges.com.
Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
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