If you know me, you know I have become a bit obsessed with growing fresh flowers for cutting and displaying all over my house. Even though flower season is coming to an end, fall and winter can be a great time to think about new vase forms for the spring and summer.
So I thought I would share a vase-making project today. In this post, an excerpt from thePottery Making Illustrated archive, Lindsay Oesterritter (author of Mastering Kilns & Firing) shares how she creates her lovely slab-built envelope vases. I love how Lindsay creates
the openings in this vase to encourage a more natural, sporadic arrangement, rather than a manicured one. –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
First, construct the paper templates that you will use to outline and cut your slabs. The nice thing about starting with paper is you can measure, fold, and tape it to exactly demonstrate the scale and dimensions of the vase before working in clay. The
templates can be repeatedly used, and will help you know how big of a slab you need to start with.
Next, roll a slab large enough to make several vases. For these flower bricks, I use a rolling pin and ¼-inch slats as guides. Compress and smooth the whole slab with a metal or soft plastic rib. Then, place and trace the templates (1). After removing
the templates, follow the traced line with a knife to make the cut. Allow the slab time to set up before you begin construction (2).
Construction
For this vase, bevel all the edges at a 45° angle as they all meet at a right angle (3). A beveled seam is important because it allows a slightly bigger connection surface and creates a stronger bond. One important point to make is, as you are beveling
you need to be careful not to reduce the overall dimensions of the piece. In other words, make sure that as you bevel, the start of your bevel is at the edge of the clay slab and not cutting into the footprint of your clay slab.
Now, it is time to slip and score the connecting edges. For this vase, start with the main body and the bottom of the vase. Slip and score only the edges that you will be connecting next (4). Using a chopstick that is lathered in slip, run it across the
edge of one of the slabs. Only apply the mortar-like slip on one of the slabs, and as you bring the clay slabs together, make sure the slip gets solidly compressed in the seam. You know you have used enough slip when there is a slight bead squishing
out at the edge (5).
Then, take a firm tool and smooth the bead of slip alongside the seam (6). Repeat these steps until all the sides of the vase are connected (7). The small exception is the last slab that closes off the form. You will be able to clean and compress the
bead of slip of this connection after you cut the opening into the vase.
Just as I like to give time for the slab to set up in the beginning, the same is true now. The seams are much wetter than the slabs, and if you were to try and work on the vase and clean up the edges now, they would move around too much. Generally, I
am working on a series of four or five vases at a time. After I construct the last vase, the first vase is ready to start the finishing steps. However, if I am only making one or two, I would work on something else and come back to this piece after
at least 20–30 minutes, providing enough time for the seams to firm up.
Finishing Touches
After the vase has had time to set up, true the corners and smooth the surface of the vase with a metal rib. Clean up any marks that look overly messy and create edges that are straight and clean (8). If something coarse in my clay happens to catch my
rib and drag across the surface of the slab as I am cleaning it, I decide then if I like it or want to smooth it out. I like to leave some marks that speak to how the vase was being handled as it was being made.
After the form is clean, cut the opening. Just like cutting the slabs with a template, cut the opening of the vase using a template as a guide (9). By outlining the template first, it will help keep the cut lines straight and precise (10). After you have
cut the opening and removed that section of the slab, clean and compress the connection of the last slab.
Because the opening in this vase has a severe point, it is also important to go back and compress or soften that point. If you don’t, that could be an easy spot for a crack to begin (11). Give the piece a few more once overs and, if satisfied, set
it aside to fully dry.
Lindsay Oesterritter is currently a full-time studio potter in Manassas, Virginia. She is a co-president of the Studio Potter Board and co-organizer of the Southern Crossing Pottery Festival held in her hometown of Louisville, Kentucky. In 2020 she published her first book, Mastering
Kilns & Firing. She has had the opportunity to teach and lead workshops, curate exhibitions, lecture and exhibit nationally and internationally, and is continually inspired by the craft community. Learn more at loceramics.comand on Instagram @alindsayo.
Search the Daily
Published Oct 28, 2024
So I thought I would share a vase-making project today. In this post, an excerpt from the Pottery Making Illustrated archive, Lindsay Oesterritter (author of Mastering Kilns & Firing) shares how she creates her lovely slab-built envelope vases. I love how Lindsay creates the openings in this vase to encourage a more natural, sporadic arrangement, rather than a manicured one. –Jennifer Poellot Harnetty, editor
PS. Learn how Lindsay makes her mortar-like slip, and how she has fun arranging multiples of this form in the January/February 2024 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated.
Getting Started
First, construct the paper templates that you will use to outline and cut your slabs. The nice thing about starting with paper is you can measure, fold, and tape it to exactly demonstrate the scale and dimensions of the vase before working in clay. The templates can be repeatedly used, and will help you know how big of a slab you need to start with.
Next, roll a slab large enough to make several vases. For these flower bricks, I use a rolling pin and ¼-inch slats as guides. Compress and smooth the whole slab with a metal or soft plastic rib. Then, place and trace the templates (1). After removing the templates, follow the traced line with a knife to make the cut. Allow the slab time to set up before you begin construction (2).
Construction
For this vase, bevel all the edges at a 45° angle as they all meet at a right angle (3). A beveled seam is important because it allows a slightly bigger connection surface and creates a stronger bond. One important point to make is, as you are beveling you need to be careful not to reduce the overall dimensions of the piece. In other words, make sure that as you bevel, the start of your bevel is at the edge of the clay slab and not cutting into the footprint of your clay slab.
Now, it is time to slip and score the connecting edges. For this vase, start with the main body and the bottom of the vase. Slip and score only the edges that you will be connecting next (4). Using a chopstick that is lathered in slip, run it across the edge of one of the slabs. Only apply the mortar-like slip on one of the slabs, and as you bring the clay slabs together, make sure the slip gets solidly compressed in the seam. You know you have used enough slip when there is a slight bead squishing out at the edge (5).
Then, take a firm tool and smooth the bead of slip alongside the seam (6). Repeat these steps until all the sides of the vase are connected (7). The small exception is the last slab that closes off the form. You will be able to clean and compress the bead of slip of this connection after you cut the opening into the vase.
Just as I like to give time for the slab to set up in the beginning, the same is true now. The seams are much wetter than the slabs, and if you were to try and work on the vase and clean up the edges now, they would move around too much. Generally, I am working on a series of four or five vases at a time. After I construct the last vase, the first vase is ready to start the finishing steps. However, if I am only making one or two, I would work on something else and come back to this piece after at least 20–30 minutes, providing enough time for the seams to firm up.
Finishing Touches
After the vase has had time to set up, true the corners and smooth the surface of the vase with a metal rib. Clean up any marks that look overly messy and create edges that are straight and clean (8). If something coarse in my clay happens to catch my rib and drag across the surface of the slab as I am cleaning it, I decide then if I like it or want to smooth it out. I like to leave some marks that speak to how the vase was being handled as it was being made.
After the form is clean, cut the opening. Just like cutting the slabs with a template, cut the opening of the vase using a template as a guide (9). By outlining the template first, it will help keep the cut lines straight and precise (10). After you have cut the opening and removed that section of the slab, clean and compress the connection of the last slab.
Because the opening in this vase has a severe point, it is also important to go back and compress or soften that point. If you don’t, that could be an easy spot for a crack to begin (11). Give the piece a few more once overs and, if satisfied, set it aside to fully dry.
Lindsay Oesterritter is currently a full-time studio potter in Manassas, Virginia. She is a co-president of the Studio Potter Board and co-organizer of the Southern Crossing Pottery Festival held in her hometown of Louisville, Kentucky. In 2020 she published her first book, Mastering Kilns & Firing. She has had the opportunity to teach and lead workshops, curate exhibitions, lecture and exhibit nationally and internationally, and is continually inspired by the craft community. Learn more at loceramics.com and on Instagram @alindsayo.
**First published in 2024.
Unfamiliar with any terms in this article? Browse our glossary of pottery terms!
Related Content
Ceramic Artists
Functional Pottery
Ceramic Sculpture
Glaze Chemistry
High Fire Glaze Recipes
Mid-Range Glaze Recipes
Low Fire Glaze Recipes
Ceramic Colorants
Ceramic Glazes and Underglazes
Ceramic Raw Materials
Pottery Clay
Ceramic Decorating Tools
Ceramic Kilns
Making Clay Tools
Wheel Throwing Tools
Electric Kiln Firing
Gas Kiln Firing
Raku Firing
Salt Firing and Soda Firing
Wood Kiln Firing
Ceramic Decorating Techniques
Ceramic Glazing Techniques
Handbuilding Techniques
Making Ceramic Molds
Making Ceramic Tile
Wheel Throwing Techniques