How to Make a Thrown-and-Squared Lidded Box Ernest Miller

It's a lot of fun to alter wheel-thrown, round forms into angular shapes. I have never had much luck creating sharp corners on wheel-thrown pots—they've always been more subtle squares. 

Using a stoneware with grog, throw a 5-pound cylinder with a thick curved bottom and the lip folded toward the interior for the lid (1). Use a finger and gently push out four equidistant points while moving up the interior wall. 

>Next, use a pair of square bats to alter and compress the cylinder into a square shape (2). Start the process slowly by working alternate corners, making several passes around the cylinder and moving the clay. Measure the diagonal corner distance for the lid with calipers. At a soft leather hard, refine the box shape using a paddle along with the addition of coils applied to the edges (3). Use a wide trimming tool to shave the exterior and refine the edges (4). Flip the box over. Use a series of square dowels of various sizes to sketch cuts for the feet. Carve the foot interior then cut the feet with a fettling knife (5).

Using a 2½-pound ball of clay for the lid, throw a thick, shallow bowl to the caliper measurement and mark the four points (6). At the soft leather-hard stage, trim the lid and begin manipulating it by hand into a square, then further refining it with a paddle (7). Flip the lid over on the box, mark the outer edge, and then cut the lid to fit. Attach a small addition of clay to the top center of the lid. At leather hard, use a fettling knife to cut the knob square and then cut the negative space (8).

Let the box dry, then bisque fire it. I first dip a quick layer of white bisque slip, then use a pencil to draw a design. Use wax resist to mask the areas you want to remain white. Let the wax thoroughly dry, then brush on the black slip. Bisque fire a second time, and apply a clear glaze before firing the piece to temperature.