Step up your handbuilding repertoire by using tar-paper templates custom made with the assistance of a template generator.
Taking a cue from garment construction, I use 2D tar-paper templates to construct repeatable 3D forms in my studio. I use a template generator ( templatemaker.nl) to get the ball rolling when planning new forms. This no-cost generator, primarily designed for making papercraft and packaging templates, has endless potential for makers who do not have access to 3D modeling programs. From their homepage, you can see they have a variety of 3D shapes to choose from: pyramids, boxes with lids, matchboxes, cylinders, cones, and more.
Generating Templates
My symmetrical cylindrical vessels all begin as truncated cone designs with the top and/or bottom measurements matching the diameters of my set of studio circle cutters. For this template, I measured my large circle cutter (4 in. (10.2 cm)) (1), decided on the desired height of my form in the greenware stage (8 in. (20.3 cm)) (2), and tried a few smaller circle cutters until finding the one that looked best (3.25 in. (8.3 cm)) (3). Once you find the truncated cone option on the homepage and before entering any measurements, click “More Options.” From this window, you can see a flat preview of your form as you go (4).
In the generator, set your bottom diameter, the top diameter, and the height of your pre-fired vessel. Note: Shrinkage will affect the fired size and scale of your finished vessel, so be sure to plan accordingly. As you change the value of these fields, the print preview option to the right will reflect any related changes which helps visually cue when something has been entered incorrectly. Since this tool was created for papercraft you will see optional parameters for glue flaps; these are not needed and can either be ignored once printed or eliminated at this stage by entering “0” for both values. Once you have your measurements entered into the related fields, press “Create!,” which generates a PDF download of your printable template.
Assembling the Templates
Now that your template is downloaded, open the file and print window as normal (5). Depending on the size of your 2D template, you will likely need to select the poster option (with the tile scale set at 100% and “0” value overlap) so you can tape the pieces together when printing. To make piecing easier, click the “cut marks” box in your print window. Once printed, use a ruler and pencil to connect these cut marks with a straight line (6). With the lines as your guides, remove the bottom edge of pieces A and B and the right edges of A and C (7). Overlap and tape together in this order: A over C, B over D, and A/C over B/D. Cut out along the bold outline (8). Once the printer-paper template is assembled and cut out, match the center line on the template and tape to see the form in the round. If everything looks right, trace it onto tar paper with a pencil (9) and cut it out to create a waterproof copy (10). Tar paper, also called roofing felt, can be found at most hardware stores and is flexible and durable for repeat use. Now you’re ready to move to clay!
Using the Templates
After rolling out a slab, begin loosely mapping out the positioning of either a single template or several templates to ensure you are making good use of the available surface area. Just like in garment construction, “measure twice, cut once” is the law of the land. Once you have an action plan, begin to cut out each piece required including the curved wall template and any circular slab tops or bottoms (cut with your circle cutters). I typically prepare slabs for 25–50 pounds of clay per making cycle and use plastic sheeting to keep moisture managed at the pre-construction stage.
Using a 10-inch-wide (25.4-cm) wareboard as a starting point, I will lay plastic down, leaving 12–14 inches (30.5–35.6 cm) to hang off one side and the remaining plastic off the other. As I cut corresponding pieces, I arrange them on the plastic-covered board, and once a single layer of slabs fills the surface, I fold the long plastic tail over and cover the exposed slabs. Working back and forth, I continue this stacking and covering until I have 5–6 layers of slabs cut and stored. Afterward, I use the 12–14-inch (30.5–35.6-cm) plastic flap to cover the stack. Storing them this way frees up valuable shelf real estate and keeps them hydrated until you are ready to build. Using tar-paper templates can make working in batches more time-efficient and help streamline your practice.
the author Margaret Kinkeade is a ceramic artist and the assistant editor for Ceramics Monthly.
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Step up your handbuilding repertoire by using tar-paper templates custom made with the assistance of a template generator.
Taking a cue from garment construction, I use 2D tar-paper templates to construct repeatable 3D forms in my studio. I use a template generator ( templatemaker.nl) to get the ball rolling when planning new forms. This no-cost generator, primarily designed for making papercraft and packaging templates, has endless potential for makers who do not have access to 3D modeling programs. From their homepage, you can see they have a variety of 3D shapes to choose from: pyramids, boxes with lids, matchboxes, cylinders, cones, and more.
Generating Templates
My symmetrical cylindrical vessels all begin as truncated cone designs with the top and/or bottom measurements matching the diameters of my set of studio circle cutters. For this template, I measured my large circle cutter (4 in. (10.2 cm)) (1), decided on the desired height of my form in the greenware stage (8 in. (20.3 cm)) (2), and tried a few smaller circle cutters until finding the one that looked best (3.25 in. (8.3 cm)) (3). Once you find the truncated cone option on the homepage and before entering any measurements, click “More Options.” From this window, you can see a flat preview of your form as you go (4).
In the generator, set your bottom diameter, the top diameter, and the height of your pre-fired vessel. Note: Shrinkage will affect the fired size and scale of your finished vessel, so be sure to plan accordingly. As you change the value of these fields, the print preview option to the right will reflect any related changes which helps visually cue when something has been entered incorrectly. Since this tool was created for papercraft you will see optional parameters for glue flaps; these are not needed and can either be ignored once printed or eliminated at this stage by entering “0” for both values. Once you have your measurements entered into the related fields, press “Create!,” which generates a PDF download of your printable template.
Assembling the Templates
Now that your template is downloaded, open the file and print window as normal (5). Depending on the size of your 2D template, you will likely need to select the poster option (with the tile scale set at 100% and “0” value overlap) so you can tape the pieces together when printing. To make piecing easier, click the “cut marks” box in your print window. Once printed, use a ruler and pencil to connect these cut marks with a straight line (6). With the lines as your guides, remove the bottom edge of pieces A and B and the right edges of A and C (7). Overlap and tape together in this order: A over C, B over D, and A/C over B/D. Cut out along the bold outline (8). Once the printer-paper template is assembled and cut out, match the center line on the template and tape to see the form in the round. If everything looks right, trace it onto tar paper with a pencil (9) and cut it out to create a waterproof copy (10). Tar paper, also called roofing felt, can be found at most hardware stores and is flexible and durable for repeat use. Now you’re ready to move to clay!
Using the Templates
After rolling out a slab, begin loosely mapping out the positioning of either a single template or several templates to ensure you are making good use of the available surface area. Just like in garment construction, “measure twice, cut once” is the law of the land. Once you have an action plan, begin to cut out each piece required including the curved wall template and any circular slab tops or bottoms (cut with your circle cutters). I typically prepare slabs for 25–50 pounds of clay per making cycle and use plastic sheeting to keep moisture managed at the pre-construction stage.
Using a 10-inch-wide (25.4-cm) wareboard as a starting point, I will lay plastic down, leaving 12–14 inches (30.5–35.6 cm) to hang off one side and the remaining plastic off the other. As I cut corresponding pieces, I arrange them on the plastic-covered board, and once a single layer of slabs fills the surface, I fold the long plastic tail over and cover the exposed slabs. Working back and forth, I continue this stacking and covering until I have 5–6 layers of slabs cut and stored. Afterward, I use the 12–14-inch (30.5–35.6-cm) plastic flap to cover the stack. Storing them this way frees up valuable shelf real estate and keeps them hydrated until you are ready to build. Using tar-paper templates can make working in batches more time-efficient and help streamline your practice.
the author Margaret Kinkeade is a ceramic artist and the assistant editor for Ceramics Monthly.
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